Let the right wine in

As specialty wineries — including those in the booming Michigan scene — have continued expanding their vintages to a wider clientele, wine shelves in local stores have grown into whole departments. But while increased options are good for both casual consumers and wine aficionados, it can make selecting a bottle a little more challenging.

But you don’t need to be an expert to find out which wine would go perfectly with barbecue spare ribs and which would go best with chocolate cake. (That would be, respectively, peach sparkling wine and port.) Local stores have begun adding staff trained in wine knowledge to take a little of the confusion out of the shopping experience.

If you don’t have time to thoroughly vet a bottle before you buy it, however, some simple tips can help pair you with the right wine.

Edward Groves, wine steward for Merindorf Meats & More, which has stores in Williamston and Mason, takes issue with the pat wisdom of “drink what you like.”

“One of the problems with this is how do you know what you like?” Groves said. “How can people possibly choose among this sea of wine?” Groves said he often recommends that customers take a picture of wine labels they like — and wines they don’t.

“That way, even if (you’re) in a store that doesn’t carry the wine (you) like, a wine steward can recommend a similar wine or special order that wine for you.”

Groves said the wine customers who come into his store encounter four standard challenges:

— They usually can’t find the wine they recently enjoyed at the store they are in.

— They never know if they will like a bottle of wine before they taste it, so instead of trying something new, they generally buy what they have bought before.

— They find the number of different wines available for purchase to be overwhelming. (Some of the labels they can’t even read because they are written in German, Italian, Spanish or another foreign language.)

— They feel that there is some secret about wine that only wine snobs know, or that they have to know a lot about wine to really appreciate it.

“So, my tip for people just beginning to have a passion for wine is to realize that you are not alone if you feel bewildered by wine,” Groves said. “The world of wine is crazy, but it is a delicious, fun, and captivating world.”

And there are other things that can be intimidating about wine, such as the vocabulary. What the heck is a sulfite, anyway?

“Do not let the sulfite warnings on the labels scare you,” said Deb Burgdorf, owner of Burgdrof’s Winerty in Haslett. “U.S. companies have to put these warnings on their bottles by law unlike other countries. Although some people are allergic to sulfites, most reactions to red wines are due to the proteins found in wine from the grapes themselves.”

Burgdorf said that most wines made in Europe contain sulfites, but they, unlike U.S. wineries, are not required by their laws to specify it on the label.

“The best way to learn about wines is to taste wines,” Burgdorf said. “Visit local winery tasting rooms or take every opportunity to taste wines in stores or events. Wines may be very different than you expect.”

For example, Burgdorf said Riesling wine is made from Riesling grapes, but the wines produced from Riesling grapes have a wide range of characteristics, from very dry to very sweet.

“The style depends on many factors such as geographical location of the vines, climate, length of time before harvest, and several parameters that winemakers can choose from in making the wine,” Burgdorf said.

Curt Kosal, co-owners of Vine & Brew in Okemos, keeps his tips simple.

“Drink what you like — don´t get hung up on scores, reviews or rules to dictate what you enjoy,” he said by email. “If you don´t know what you enjoy, try some new things. The best way to learn is to drink more.”

Kosal said there are a lot of good value-priced wines that will allow you to experiment.

“Experienced wine shop staff or restaurant sommeliers will be happy help you — just ask,” he said. And his pro tip? “Dry sparkling wines go with everything.”

Big Ten Party Stores owners Nora and Jim Anderson and Peter and Jayne Youngs have traveled to California, Western Europe, China and the Caribbean to learn about wine, beer and liquor. The first Big Ten store opened 22 years ago and has grown to four locations around the Lansing area.

“We carry over 500 wines and have a knowledgeable, helpful staff,” said Nora Anderson by email. “Special orders are no problem. And we offer delivery in local area.”

Tapping into the trend of organic and localvore eating, Foods for Living in East Lansing has a boutique wine selection focusing on organic, sulfite-free and Michigan wines.

“We have spent the last few years cultivating our wine section to include a variety of wines that are unique, high quality wines that you don´t necessarily find everywhere,” said Rebecca Zader, one of Foods for Living’s co-directors. “We recently just started carrying Good Neighbor Organic, a certified organic Michigan winery. We also do regular wine tastings on Saturday afternoons and love it when customers ask for advice when choosing a wine.”

An ever-growing list of Lansing-area bars and restaurants have incorporated wine lists for the overall edification of local palates. East Lansing’s Beggar´s Banquet was among the first; it had the area’s first Wine Night in 1997, allowing customers to try new wines at half price. At Dusty’s Cellar in Okemos you can either enjoy your wine over dinner or get it to go from the attached retail store, which grew from the high demand the restaurant was seeing for wine options. Dusty’s even started a wine club to further reduce the price on cases of wine.

“It’s a great way to try new wines consumers otherwise would not try,” said owner Matt Rhodes. “We also host monthly wine dinners in the wine bar, tastings in the  cellar along with many other wine and beer events.”

Two years ago, Paul Fox and Paul Bussard opened P Squared Wine Bar and Bistro in downtown Lansing to fill what they saw as a niche.

“In a city where beer seems to be top of mind, we love being the downtown wine oasis,” Bussard said. “Wine is our lifeblood. It’s why we are here and it´s how we continue to stay in business.”

Bussard said he and Fox have a passion sharing wine with people, and taste at least 20 wines per week. P Squared offers wines by the glass, bottle and wine flights, and host private wine tastings for groups up to 20.

So if you’re looking to dine out in style or just want to look like a pro at the next cocktail party, there is no shortage of local outlets to school you in wine. You just have to know where to look.

Some essentials of wine drinking:

— Work from light to dark. Just as you begin a dinner service with some appetizers and salad before moving to heavier courses, the wine should follow suit. Select lighter wines to accompany the earlier course before opting for deeper, richer wines as the meal progresses.

— Consider sparkling to accompany appetizers and opening courses. It works particularly well with salty foods, which is why it is often a good match for hors d´oeuvres. If yours is a cocktail party, consider serving champagne, which typically pairs well with passed finger foods and even bite-sized desserts.

— Opt for Sauvignon Blanc when you do not want the flavor of the wine to be overwhelmed by the food. This style of wine works with early courses that pack a flavorful punch. It can be grassy or tropical in flavoring, depending on the region in which the grapes were grown. It is commonly described as crisp and fresh in flavor and is often recommended with sushi.

— Match delicate seafood dishes with a light wine. Pinot Grigios are delicately flavored and will pair well with seafood. Fish that is served in a rich sauce may be better matched with a heartier Chardonnay.

— Make rosé your go-to wine when serving cheese. Although some cheeses work great with white or red, rose is typically a safe bet when serving cheese because of its acidity and fruity character, offering the best of both worlds.

— Hearty meats, such as steaks and chops, pair well with rich reds. Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux are great when paired with meat. Malbec and Shiraz can hold their own if meats are spiced and extremely flavorful.

— Rustic wines will work best with rustic recipes. Try to find a wine from the same region from which the meal originated. Pinot Noir is a light-bodied red wine that has full flavor and can work with many pasta dishes as well as earthy ingredients, such as mushrooms.