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Wednesday, Oct. 15 — Thousands of people travel to Niagara, Canada, each year to enjoy the wonders of the falls, embrace the historic impressions of Niagara on Lake or embark upon one of the hiking trails along the Niagara Escarpment. There’s also a route that allows oenophiles to sample some of the area’s wonderful and diverse wines. 

Canada’s wines are overseen by the Vintners Quality Alliance, which split Niagara’s wine country into two regional designations: Niagara on the Lake and the Niagara Escarpment. Much like European traditions, these two regions have been divided into 10 smaller sub-appellations that are identified with unique geographical and soil conditions.

There are almost 90 wineries in Niagara. Heading in from Michigan, the first few wineries you encounter are to be found on the Niagara Escarpment.

In 2005, professional golfer Mike Weir opened the Mike Weir Winery, which, at the time, was a virtual winery desperately seeking a permanent home. Several wine makers have made the wines for his label, but it wasn’t until June 2014 that the Mike Weir Winery Retail & Hospitality Center in Beamsville, Ontraio, opened. The contemporary tasting facility has glass walls with a view of the surrounding vineyards and a patio.

There are tours of the Weir Family Vineyard accompanied by a flight of three wines. Profits from the sale of the wines go to the Mike Weir Charitable Foundation, which assists several causes that support children in physical, emotional or financial need.

Angels Gate Winery was constructed on a property once owned by the Congregation of Missionary Sisters of Christian Charity in Ontario. In 1995, the land was converted into a vineyard. The Angels Gate 2012 merlot is a tasty little glass of wine. Other wineries worthy of a visit on this road are Thirty Bench, Rosewood and Organized Crime.

John Howard’s vineyard, Megalomaniac Winery, has good quality wines at both entry level and high end. They are crafted by Sue Anne Staff who also produces wines under her own label. The winery is extravagant: Red carpets, oversized chandeliers, impressive works of art and a super-sized tasting bar staffed with well trained and informative staff. The view of the Escarpment and surrounding wineries from the fourth floor terrace is impressive, and the names of the wines — Narcissist Riesling, Son Of A Bitch Pinot Noir — are equally notable.

Henry of Pelham is one of the oldest wineries in the area. The three Speck brothers —Paul, Daniel and Matthew — built it in 1982. All three are still heavily involved in day-to-day operations. It is a charming place to stop and visit, situated deep in the heart of the Short Hills Bench. The winery is picturesque and boasts a terrace café.

The Niagara Peninsula Pinot, selling for $16.95, shows great varietal character, is exceedingly tasty and drinks well on release. The premier bottling is the Speck Family Pinot; it sells for $29.95. It blows away wine at a similar price point, and will show much better after a few years in the cellar.

However, the vineyard’s best wines come in the sparkling variety. The Brut and Cuvee Catherine are both fine examples of what good bubbly is all about, and the Cuvee Catherine Carte Blanche Blanc de Blanc is also exemplary. It is lees aged for five years before disgorgement and at $45 could go up against any French Champagne at an equal price. Sitting on the patio in the fall as the vine leaves are turning color and sipping a chilled glass of this nectar is unreal.