On the bubbly

This is the high-profile world of Champagne luxury, which condenses every drop possible through images of refinement, elegance and upper class status. This concept trickles down to brands like Veuve Cliquot and Moet & Chandon, enormous producers whose marketing budgets are generally unmatched in the wine world.

But if you don’t care about playing the prestige Champagne game, there is an ocean of sparkling wine deals out there for the consumer right now. Most important, sparkling wines are arguably the most versatile wines for food pairing or standalone consumption.

Forget about New Year’s Eve for now. There are many tasty combinations waiting for you for your Christmas parties, Chinese take-out, pizza, fried chicken, sushi and smoked salmon. Most fizzy juice is in the conversation and is rarely overpriced.

The reasoning is simple: Sparkling wines are almost always high in acid, which acts as an impeccable foil to fat and salt. So let’s start local and move global.

Larry Mawby is arguably the most important winemaker in Michigan. His lineup is large, but the overwhelming knockout is Mawby Blanc de Blanc ($25). This wine is safe, but that is not a euphemism for “average.” Apple skin, lemon peel and white pepper flavors only register a touch over the dry backbone, but that’s what makes it pleasurable. It’s Chardonnay all the way, and can’t be missed if you ever make the trek to Leelanau. I’ve never been disappointed by this wine.

Seven miles north of Mawby, Forty-Five North Peach Cremant ($17) continues to be a tasting room rock star. Winemaker Jay Briggs is a steady hand who understands when to intervene and when to hang. It’s a straightforward equation: house white blend plus tasty peach juice. Not sexy enough for you? It should be. Those lively, juicy notes carry length, and the sweetness never strays toward saccharine tones. Make no mistake, this is sweet, but there is balance. If you’ve got fruit desserts on your mind, you should look here first.

Which leads to the pink elephant: Innocent Bystander Sparkling Pink Moscato ($15). This Australian wine is Exhibit A why a grape variety or style should never be written off. There was a time in the last few years where at least eight Lansing-area restaurants were pouring this by the glass. This is not a corporate wine, unleashed by either of the muscular Gallo/Constellation twin tower profiteers. But Lansing wine buyers loved it. Sweet raspberry and strawberry flavors are fresh and never synthetic. This has been an organically proven champion of the people; it’s only embellishment is in its fruity, sweet personality. This is the best Moscato on the market.

Going to northern Italy, there’s been quite a jump in Prosecco production in the last few years, not all of it sound, but some producers have been consistent. Prosecco will likely never have depth and complexity on its side, but it was never meant to. Case in point: Nino Franco “Rustico” Prosecco ($18). The wine is seamless, with crisp pear, minerality, spearmint and dried flowers. The Franco family has been making this kind of wine for a century — dry, sustained and pretty. Pair this with almost any takeout, and you’ll see a bright bubbly make those decadent, greasy foods come alive.

Another trend is to highlight small Champagne producers. Marc Hebrart Brut Selection ($60) is an aggressively complex Grower Champagne. This is fruit of his family’s work, primarily Pinot Noir with Chardonnay. This is ageworthy, robust Champagne, teeming with flavors of dried herbs, red apple, acacia and wool. There’s muscle here, and it’s clear this is a serious wine that can compete with the big boys.

Lansing area folks should be able to snag these gems at their favorite independent retailers such as Vine & Brew, Dusty’s Cellar, and Tom’s Party Store. And remember, these wines will always be food friendly: When the holidays are gone and the snow melts, these will still kick ass with KFC.

Justin King has worked in the wine business for 10 years, and is a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers. He is the sommelier for the Stand Gastro Bistro in Birmingham. The Williamston resident is a sucker for French Chenin Blanc and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. You can tweet your favorite bottles at him @PlonkAdvocate.