Take a back road

´Ride Michigan’ offers motorcycle tours off the beaten path

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About this time of year, as the snow piles up outside their windows, motorcyclists start to get antsy. Bill Murphy, who has written five books on motorcycle excursions, is already planning his next road trip on his Harley-Davidson Road King.

In his most recent book, “Ride Michigan,” Murphy takes motorcycle enthusiasts on a tour of Michigan’s back roads, weaving through small towns and skirting the Great Lakes. The book is divided into four sections: the north woods, the lakeshores, the southern farmlands and the Great Lakes, and offers more than 30 tour suggestions. These tours range from excursions that only take a few hours to tours that require several days.

Each of the tours is unique, but what ties them together is Murphy’s keen eye for things that most people don’t see, or rather, don’t notice. Murphy, who worked for the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality until he retired in 1998, uses the skills he developed in his job to point out everything from geological formations to unusual sites.

Where other riders may see a hill, he sees a moraine formed eons ago by glaciers. Where most see and appreciate the great sand dunes, he knows how and when they were developed. When it comes to motorcycle tours, Murphy is a combination of Bill Nye the Science Guy and a Michigan history teacher.

Murphy has been riding for more than four decades, registering over 300,000 miles on his odometers. He calls his bike adventures “exploratory wandering.”

“I think it is more important to be curious and flexible on the road than to adhere to a rigid agenda and travel itinerary,” he writes.

Murphy likes to include things that don’t make most tour guides, even if they are out of the way. “I have a love affair with Michigan and when I’m on my motorcycle. I’m in no hurry at all,” he says.

One journey, which he calls “Path to Perdition,” starts out in East Lansing and follows the paths of old Indian foot rails to Hell, Mich. In his trip details, Murphy makes sure riders know when turns are necessary and alerts riders to some difficult navigating since the road to Hell can be confusing. Along the way he also highlights stops for refueling, both for the bike and the rider.

“Personally, I don’t recommend that motorcyclists drink, so I get a Coke,” he says.

His routes always include popular places along the way where motorcyclists are known to gather. A stop at the Dam Site Inn in Hell is recommended for friendly talk, souvenirs and what Murphy calls “obligatory pictures.”

One of Murphy’s favorite trips is entitled “Where Eagles Soar and Waters Roar.” This tour starts near the Upper Peninsula’s Lake Gogebic and goes to the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula and back. This tour includes dramatic views as it skirts Lake Superior and then winds through Porcupine Mountains State Park.

Along the way, riders will begin to appreciate the hardiness of Michigan’s copper and iron ore miners. On the way back, Murphy tantalizes you with a tale of the otherworldly Pauldling light, a mysterious light seen in the woods at night in the region. According to local legends, the light is the spirit of a railroad man swinging his lantern.

Although he does enjoy going on group rides, Murphy mostly tours alone so if he sees something in the distance he can turn left or right and check it out. He also enjoys the little things on a bike ride, like the smells and temperature changes you can feel on a motorcycle.

“You become immersed in nature and you notice more things on a bike,” he says.

Murphy likes to chat with locals and other travelers while he is on the road, and his motorcycle is a natural ice-breaker. “People see the bike and come over and talk to me,” he says A nice feature of this guidebook is it can easily be adapted for people who would rather make their trip on four wheels. With its detailed turns and tips, the book is in many ways reminiscent of the collectible guide books of the early 20th century that were handed out by local tourist councils.

While it may seem odd to think about motorcycle tours while there is still snow on the ground, now is the perfect time to cozy up with a hot cocoa and a copy of “Ride Michigan.” Riding season will be here before you know it.

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