Northern Michigan on two wheels

“They had to be safe and scenic,” he said in a phone conversation from his Traverse City-area home.

Out of the many bicycling routes Downes writes about, he said that the M-22 Frankfort to Glen Arbor tour and the Glen Lake tour are a couple of his favorites.

The M-22 route is a little over 30 miles one way. He said the route has a wide bike path, and its course takes you through the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to Glen Arbor.

“The Sleeping Bear route alone counted 350,000 cycling trips last year, and it’s estimated that tens of thousands of bicyclists head (to Northern Michigan) each year for a biking adventure,” he said.

The Glen Lake tour, which is 17 miles long, circumnavigates both Big and Little Glen Lakes. “Glen Lake,” he writes, “Like Torch Lake to the northeast, claims the sobriquet of being one of the top 10 most beautiful lakes in the world.”

He writes that along the way “there are spectacular views of the lakes, Manitou Island and Alligator Hill.” (Who knew Michigan had alligators?)

Hemingway buffs will enjoy the 43-mile tour around Walloon Lake. This route takes you through the center of Hemingway country, with stops at Horton Bay, Bay Harbor, Petoskey, Walloon Lake and Boyne City. A stop at Petoskey’s Little Traverse Historical Museum is a must for Hemingway fans.

Downes doesn’t just send you out without directions; each tour is accompanied with easy to read maps and written instructions. He is also quick to suggest dining places where hungry bicyclists can refuel.

The author also takes you to two of Michigan’s most popular islands: Beaver and Mackinac. Mackinac Island’s flat, eightmile course around the island is scenic and great for families with young children. For those more adventurous, head up the steep climbs to the center of the island where the views are incredible.

The Beaver Island tour comes with a caution: Beware of poor road conditions. The Beaver Island and Mackinac Island trips both require a ferry crossing. Historic Mackinac Island, of course, has absolutely zero automobile traffic, and Beaver Island traffic is extremely light. You are more likely to see a deer than a car on Beaver Island.

Downes’ cycling experience began more than 30 years ago, when he began training for triathlons. Even though he has logged innumerable miles on bikes across the world, he still prefers Northern Michigan for his cycling. Most of the cycling has been uneventful, he said, except for a time he writes about in the book when he rolled up on a brown bear 30 yards away. (By the way, the bear sighting was not in Michigan.)

He writes that “Michigan arguably holds the title of America’s Trail State,” citing figures about rail-to- trail conversions and noting that Michigan is one of only two states to require funding for non-motorized transportation.

The book is well written and filled with humorous asides, reflecting Downes’ previous career as editor, co-publisher and founder of Traverse City’s Northern Express weekly newspaper.

In addition to the beautiful rides around Michigan’s largest inland lakes, Downes has several rides which he classifies as “epic.”

One is the “Tunnel of Trees,” which stretches from Petoskey to Good Hart to Cross Village and dead-ends in Mackinaw City, some 51 miles from the start.

This epic ride, depending on the season, will showcase “carpets of trilliums” and spectacular fall color as the cathedral-like covering of trees seems to envelop riders.

In the food suggestions for this route, he recommends a stop at the historic Legs Inn in Cross Village for some of the best Polish food in Michigan and the unusual wood sculptures which grace this diner. The interior is filled not only with the aroma of kielbasa, but also with driftwood and twisted branches formed into one-of-a-kind sculptures.

The route culminates in a spectacular finish which gives riders an unparalleled view of the Mackinac Bridge.

Downes also provides tips of what to take on a ride, such as sunscreen, clothing, salve for bee stings and of course plenty of water. He stresses the importance of taking care of yourself while biking.

“The most important thing for any bike ride is the engine powering the bicycle,” he said.

No matter what length of trip you feel is right for you as a rider, in Northern Michigan, Downes said, “You will experience some of the best cycling trips in whole country, if not the world.”

"Biking Up North"

Presentation by Robert Downes 7 p.m. Thursday, March 26 FREE Foster Community Center 200 N. Foster St., Lansing (517) 882-3700, biketcba.org