He ate: Small plates pack a big punch

“Sixty years ago, I bellied up to the bar at Ed’s and had my first legal drink. As I recall, it was a $0.15 draft that came with a chunk of pickled bologna, a hard-boiled egg and some saltines. It was breakfast time, and I had just finished the night shift on the New York City Railroad. Had you told me then that I would be eating shrimp tempura, P.E.I. mussels, ceviche, two kinds of bruschetta and drinking a Moscow Mule at what is now Zoobie’s, I’d have said something about your head being stuck where the sun doesn’t shine.”

So our friend Bruce Cornelius wrote me after a recent visit to Zoobie’s/Cosmos, a bar/restaurant combination in Lansing’s Old Town. There is something magical about stepping into a fondly remembered place you haven’t visited in decades.

While I cannot recall ever hoisting a brew in what was formerly Ed’s Tavern, the building is a well-known north side fixture. It was one of Lansing’s venerable “factory bars” — the remnants of the long closed Motor Wheel factory are just a short walk away.

Zoobie’s, Bruce informed us, is in honor of the original owner, Ed Zubek. It’s fair to say Mr. Zubek would scarcely recognize the place, certainly not the menu.

Pickled bologna has been tossed aside in favor of dishes such as an astounding ceviche ($12) —raw shrimp and scallops cured in lime juices with bits of avocado, red onion and cilantro scattered throughout. I’m fussy about ceviche (which is probably why I’ve never made it), and skeptical of seafood that hasn’t been properly seared, boiled or fried. But Cosmos gets it right.

So as not to confuse you further, let’s explain the Zoobie’s/Cosmos dichotomy. The re-opening of Zoobie’s came first, in 2013. It’s a bar in the Ed’s Tavern mold, with vestiges of its former self. The wallpaper behind the bar is original, featuring sketches of the original Las Vegas casinos circa 1950.

Cosmos arrived on the scene last January. It’s joined at the hip with Zoobie’s, and is the food side of the establishment. Good news: You can order off Cosmos’ menu in Zoobie’s, or get drinks from Zoobie’s in Cosmos.

Cosmos creates wood-fired gourmet pizzas and various “shareable” small plates. The latter are my favorite. Now, I can’t say that food has ever brought me to tears, but one of Cosmos’ iterations of bruschetta came close. It’s topped with tomato hunks, basil pesto, garlic, olive oil, triple creme brie and a dash of balsamic reduction ($5).

One taste of the brie, and I turned to Judy. “France,” is all I could say. It was achingly close to a superb, buttery cheese we had in a monastery-turned-hotel south of Paris. At that moment, I declared it was the single best thing I had ever tasted. The triple creme brie at Cosmos was a personal show-stopper, evoking powerful memories of one night in France. I still am amazed at how a single taste can transport you through time and space.

Over the course of three visits, we had Prince Edward Island mussels ($11), a cheese board with guava marmalade ($14) and bruschetta with goat cheese and fig-and-bacon jam ($6). All were outstanding. The P.E.I mussels, which were larger than I’m used to seeing, were plump, tender and served in a steamy butter and wine broth. We feasted.

We tried pizza on two visits. While they were good, they didn’t match the excellence of other dishes. The Bosc Pear pizza ($14) featured thin slices of prosciutto and pear and was dotted with bleu cheese. Fresh arugula with a light vinaigrette were piled on the pizza once it came out of the oven. A little more bleu cheese could have balanced out the mix of flavors. Still, it was tasty enough that we ate the leftovers for breakfast the next morning.

Given a seating choice, I opt for Zoobie’s. It’s quieter, for one thing, and less sterile-looking. I do understand the “noise vibe” approach so prevalent in restaurants these days, but I prefer dinner conversation that is spoken, not shouted.

One quibble: On one visit we ordered a scoop of ice cream with pineapple and rosemary. I detected no hint of rosemary. Disappointing.

A special shout-out to John, our server during the last visit. He was as prompt as he was quick-witted. Whatever our friend Bruce dished out in humor and sarcasm, John happily returned the favor. That kind of banter makes for a memorable visit.

Though its menu is limited, Zoobies/ Cosmos is now on my list of favorite Lansing-area restaurants. The list is growing. Not a bad problem to have, is it?