Delectable discoveries

First, some of the highlight whites. 2007 Ornella Molon Sauvignon Blanc ($23.79), presented by Italian winemaker Massimo Furlan, is Italian juice with a softer, rounder mouth feel than a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps assisted by extended aging on the lees. Grapefruit and citrus were at the fore. The Italian 2008 Ornella Pinto Grigio ($17.49) also presented with refreshing, crisp, concentrated fruit.

2009 Bower’s Harbor Pinot Grigio ($13.99), presented by proprietor Spencer Stegenga, opened with a bright, fruity nose, soft pear and melon flavors, and nice acidity on the mid-palate and finish. Another dependable Michigan producer, Bel Lago, was present with proprietor/ winemaker Charlie Edson. His 2008 Auxerrois ($13.39), a grape variety common in the Alsace region of France, and a perennial winery favorite, had an effusive, fruity nose, full bouquet, a creamy yeasty mouth feel with overtones of bread dough, and complex flavors — a unique wine I always love.

Noted Detroit area importer Paul Mann presented his selections. If one sees “a Paul Mann selection” pasted on the side of a bottle, you can have great confidence about the quality of the juice inside the glass.

Selbach 2008 Riesling Kabinett Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay is a Mosel bargain at $11.19. It shows a soft, viscous mouth feel, but with supporting acidity. Selbach-Oster 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese ($29.99) presented with amazing richness and mouth-filling viscosity. A 95-point wine, this is Auslese quality in a Spatlese wine. Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt 2008 Piesporter Riesling ($16.59), from the heart of the famed Goldtrpfchen Vineyard, showed nicely delineated Riesling flavors with crispness balancing the sweetness, a clean, mediumlength finish and a very cleansing palate. Bernkasteler Badstube 2007 Riesling Sptlese ($24.99) from Dr. H. Thanisch, a winery practicing sustainable agriculture, presented with big, concentrated fruit. It was a favorite.

Two Angels Sauvignon Blanc ($16.49) from the High Valley Appellation north of NapaValley will please fans of this grape variety, demonstrating a somewhatsoft, round mouth feel, but typical Sauvignon Blanc flavors.

Bianchi“Elsa” 2009 Torrontes ($9.19), a characteristic Argentinean white winegrape, showed soft, aromatic floral notes on the nose, and just a touchof sweetness on the palate.

Anew experience for me, and many of the tasters, was the Argentinean NewAge White ($9.19), a blend of 50-percent Sauvignon Blanc and 50-percentMalvasia.

Iwatched with skepticism as this white wine was poured over the rocks.It was a pleasant, somewhat sweet, semi-sparkling white wine. However,after adding a spray of lime and swishing it around, the sweetness wascut by the lime’s acidity, adding an extra taste dimension. This is avariation on wine drinking worth trying as a cooling, backyard,low-alcohol, summer cocktail.

Movingon to reds, Marchesi Di Barolo 2006 Barbera ($17.49) showed notes ofcherry and strawberry with modest tannins and a light ruby color.Marchesi Di Barolo 2008 Dolcetto D’Alba ($17.49) was all about soft,strawberry fruit, leaving a drying tang on the tongue and a mediumfinish. Marchesi Di Barolo 2004 Barolo ($50.99),, made from 100-percentNebbiolo, stepped up the quality and concentration a giant notch.Matured in oak casks for three years, this wine showed intense bouquet,dark fruit, real depth of flavor and chewiness. It is still a baby andshould have a long life.

Similarly,the 2007 Navarro-Lopez Garnacha “Rojo” (a/k/a Grenache) from40-year-old vineyards in the south of Spain, presented with aconcentrated, fruity nose, a fruit forward presentation, and soft mouthfilling flavors; think backyard barbecue. It should be a crowd pleaserand, at $9.99, it’s a bargain.

TwoAngels 2006 Petite Sirah ($28.69) was dark garnet, mouth-filling, big,rich, deep and concentrated, with a long finish. If big reds are yourthing, you’ll like this. Eponymous ($47.99), a 2005 red from RobertPepi Jr. grown near the ridgeline of the Mayacamus Mountains separatingNapa from Sonoma, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and CabernetFranc. It is all about intense, mountain fruit, big bouquet, and aspicy, chocolaty finish. It was one of the wines of the evenings.

Querceto2004 Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.29), a wine made from Sangiovesegrapes, showed typical bright cherry and strawberry in the nose, sweetfruit on the mid-palate and no drying character on the finish. Flavorintensity was stepped up a notch with Capitel De Roari 2006 Amarone($35.69) from Luigi Righetti, a wine made with partially dried Corvina,Rondinella and Molinara grapes. It showed dark fruit with a hint of tarin the nose, and sweet dried fruit character. Pair this with heartymeals and intense sauces.

DomaineSerene is an outstanding Oregon producer, but one does pay for thequality. Its 2007 Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvee ($37.19) is 100-percentbarrel-aged in small French oak, and shows typical Pinot Noir flavors,with modest tannin and everything in balance. Domaine Serene 2006 PinotNoir Evenstad Vineyard ($61.99) gets extended barrel aging and showsthe quality of the fruit with big, round, mouth-filling flavors and anever-so-pleasing, lingering finish.

Anotherdependable west coast producer of big red wines is Steltzner. The 2006Merlot ($35.89) from Stags Leap District in Napa had good structure,round, full fruit, and a bit of a drying finish, which may round outover time. The 2006 Cabernet from Stags Leap ($42.49) led off with adark berry nose, soft mouth feel, concentrated fruit, good balance, anda bit of chocolate in the finish.

Terrabianca2005 Campaccio ($28.99), 70-percent Sangiovese and 30-percent Cabernet,is always dependable. Medium garnet in color, it is a dry wine withvery sweet fruit, nice balance and a soft finish.

Ifyou weren’t among the tasters and testers at the MSU Museum winetasting event this year, consider attending next year. It is a premieretasting and learning opportunity.

In vino veritas.

(Michael Brenton is president of the Greater Lansing Vintners Club. His column appears monthly.)