Not just any port in a storm

A recent tasting revealed the many types and tastes of the popular wine

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Despite the proliferation of sweet, red domestic wines self-styled as “port,” authentic port wine comes only from the Douro River Valley region of northern Portugal and must be grown and vinified in accordance with strict governmental regulations.

Although a variety of wine styles are produced in the Douro, when most people think of port, they think of a sweet red wine, fortified with neutral grape spirits to increase the alcohol content and stop fermentation while plenty of sugar remains in the wine.

Historically, this style of winemaking can be traced back to the 1700s, when port wines were exported to England, but frequently spoiled in transit. Winemakers learned that adding neutral, high-alcohol grape spirits would protect the wine against spoilage during the long journey and very poor storage conditions. That objective holds true today, as port wines frequently will maintain quality for days or even weeks after opening, unlike the very short shelf life of typical table wines, which quickly oxidize and turn vinegary within days of opening, even if properly stored.

Authentic port wine is typically made from five grape varieties relatively unrecognized in this country, including Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Tinta Cão, Tinta Barroca and Touriga Francesa. It is created in a variety of styles, several of which were showcased recently at a Michigan tasting hosted by Dominic Symington of Symington Family Estates, whose family has been involved in the port trade since the 1700s. Familiar Symington labels include Graham’s, Warre’s, Dow’s, and Smith Woodhouse.

Symington brought with him a variety of wines representing a broad spectrum of port styles and price points. Prices represent recent special sale prices at Goodrich’s.

An Altano Red ($7.99), served as an aperitif, was a relatively straightforward, simple dry red wine. Smooth and approachable, it would be an appropriate choice as an alternative to sipping on a Merlot or Cabernet.  

The most idiosyncratic of the group was a Warre’s Fine White Port ($14.99), not a style frequently encountered. Amber colored, this wine was all about palate coating apricot and honey. As a tasty, backyard summer aperitif, Symington suggested creating a 50-50 mix of this white port with tonic water, adding a slice of lime and a sprig of mint.

“Ruby” port has a color befitting its name and typically is one of the most affordable styles. Warre’s Heritage Ruby ($14.99) is an entry-level ruby port with bright, red fruit flavors and ruby color. Aged in neutral wood, it is ready to drink upon purchase.

Warre’s Warrior Reserve ($14.99), salepriced at the same as Heritage ruby at the time of the tasting, represents a step up in quality, utilizing better fruit from better vineyards. This dark ruby blend of 3- and 4-year-old wines shows black cherry, plum and a more concentrated, broader palate, with a very long finish. There is more structure from the modest tannins, and some sharpness of acidity at the back of the palate. 

“Tawny” port wines have a color that, again, befits their name. Aged for years in wooden barrels, they undergo progressive oxidation and evaporation. If there is a year designation on the bottle, it represents the average age of the wines in the bottle at the time of bottling. Although oxidation is anathema to a typical table wine, it is central to the core of a tawny port. As the wine ages it evolves from bright ruby to amber-tinged.

Warre’s King’s Tawny ($14.69) is a young tawny, aged an average of three years, and still retaining ruby tones. It shows undertones of the nutty, caramel flavors typical of tawny ports, while starting to lose primary fruit flavors and developing some dried fruit character. As with other tawny ports, it is ready to drink upon purchase.

Warre’s Otima 10-year-old tawny ($20.99) represents another step up in price and quality. Amber brown with a pink tinge, it is less viscous than ruby port, displaying typical nutty flavors, along with characteristic dried fruit and caramel. Symington recommends enjoying it slightly chilled so that any alcohol heat is tamed.  

Warre’s Otima 20-year-old Tawny ($39.99) is a darker, translucent amber brown. Because Port evaporates at the rate of 3 to 3 1/2 percent per year from the large, neutral, wooden storage vessels in which it ages, as tawny wines grow older the juice becomes more concentrated.

Again, this tawny presents with a somewhat delicate mouth feel, but more concentrated taste and aroma of nuts and dried fruit and toffee. Ready to drink upon release, it is not intended for long-term cellaring. Of course, it already contains juice more than 20 years old.

Port wine characterized as “late bottled vintage” refers to wine cellared in barrel for an extended period of time before bottling, usually four to six years after the harvest. Typically ready to drink upon release, Warre’s 2000 Late Bottled Vintage ($26.99) was so fresh it could have been bottled yesterday. This wine was aged for four years in relatively neutral oak, then enjoyed additional bottle age before release. Exhibiting broad, deep, dark fruit flavors, this Port had great mouth feel and was a good accompaniment to Hershey’s chocolates.

The king of the hill was Warre’s 2003 Vintage Port ($73.99). Vintage-dated ports are released only in exceptional years and represent the pinnacle of the quality spectrum from port producers. They typically are candidates for as much as decades of cellaring and can maintain freshness for weeks after opening because of the quality of the fruit and the underlying structure of the wine.

Everything about this wine was dark — dark color, dark fruit flavors, and dark chocolate components, with a long, satisfying finish. Tannins were noticeable, but not overpowering. It paired well with a fudge brownie and raspberries. 

Is 2003 a special year in your household? Birth of a child? Anniversary? If so, consider laying down this wine (in a cool, dark place that isn’t too dry) to open in celebration of your child’s 21st birthday, or your 20th anniversary. Or your 30th, or 40th.

Although a bit counterintuitive when consuming a red wine, consider serving these wines at a medium chill for maximum lingering enjoyment on a warm, summer day. Then sit back and savor.

In Vino Veritas

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