Meals on wheels — done right

Some restaurateurs think atmosphere first.  Others, location (location, location).  For Jesse Hahn, it’s the food that matters above all. And he knows food.

Trailer Park’d is the vehicle from which Hahn shares his knowledge and love of food done right. Literally.

A transient merchant — bureaucra-eeze for "street vendor" — Trailer Park’d is a kitchen on wheels, housed in a wood-sided trailer towed behind a Chevy pickup. 

Hahn now sets up daily at the corner of Cedar and Liberty Streets, just north of Grand River Avenue, and is looking to move into Old Town soon. Trailer Park’d appears weekly at the Allen Street and other farmers markets, and hits occasional events: It was at Preuss Pets during  last weekend’s Be A Tourist in Your Own Town festivities.

Hahn is delighted to be serving food on the street, but he isn’t throwing cheap hot dogs into a murky holding tank of tepid water; he’s doing his level best to provide a classy version of meals on wheels. Foodies will recognize Hahn’s talent immediately — and he’s doing it with an eye toward accessibility.

"We’re trying to give people another option besides fast food," Hahn says. "I’ve sold food for $50 a plate, and it’s hard for me to relate to that."

Hahn, who returned home to the Lansing area from Fennville, where he was the chef d’ cuisine at Salt of the Earth, has a simple mission: locally sourced street food done right.

The grass-fed beef he uses comes from Eaton Rapids; the organic produce from Owosso; the bread is made in Holt; the free-range pork and chicken are local, too.  

"It’s honest food," Hahn says, emphasizing his commitment to the slow food movement. "We want happy animals.  Respecting the product is what it’s all about."

Hamburgers typify street food in this country (think drive-thru), and a Trailer Park’d beef sandwich ($7.50) should be in the running for best in town.

It begins with a chewy, herb-encrusted focaccia that has olive halves baked into the bread.  Caramelized red onions, cooked to a pretty purple-white-brown, are soft, mellow and sweet while retaining a bit of crunch. A touch of balsamic vinegar adds depth, the acidity contrasting gently with the sweetened onion.

The beef (grass-fed, remember) is draped in a blanket of fontina cheese. A bit of fontina spilled over the edge of the tall burger and pooled into a delicious bite-sized clump on the edge of the focaccia, like a lifeboat  on the side of the Titanic; once it was gobbled up, the rest of the burger went down a little too quickly. 

Burgers are on the menu every day, like the Spanish-inspired pollo torta ($7.50). A crescent-shaped, hardy bolillo bun is split in half and stuffed with queso fresco, black beans, avocado, chunks of tomatillo, cilantro and free-range chicken — itself seasoned and smoked before assembly into the sandwich.  It comes with a rich, homemade dipping sauce, a stock made from chicken bones, an au jus for the people.

"We want to use the whole animal when we cook," Hahn says. "We don’t waste anything."

The Ballin’ Ass Tacos ($3.75, two for $7) deserve a bit of description as well. They start with spicy chorizo, which Hahn makes himself and arranges to have ground fresh.

The meat is loaded onto a pair of toasted flour tortillas and topped with queso fresco, cilantro and wedges of lime. The effect is a burst of heat, with the chorizo followed closely behind by the refreshing creaminess of the cheese, the green of the cilantro and a burst of cool citrus from the lime. 

The menu adjusts with the season; grilled asparagus with balsamic and romano cheese is on the menu for spring, along with salads that utilize rhubarb, baby kale and other seasonal vegetables.  Homemade soups are a daily option, too, like the smoked turkey broth with couscous, leeks and creamy goat cheese.

Trailer Park’d is a labor of love for Hahn. Family and friends have contributed greatly, and despite some bumpiness settling into a regular spot in the first few weeks, he’s optimistic. In the long run, the trailer is serving as a low-overhead means to raise enough capital for a brick-and-mortar restaurant.

In the meantime, bringing culinary life to the streets of Lansing is the focus.

"It’s about how dedicated you are to the craft," Hahn says. "High standards and attention to detail."

Trailer Park’d
Corner of Cedar and Liberty Streets
(517) 303-4445
11 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 
Allen Street Farmers Market
2:30-7 p.m. Wednesday
South Lansing Farmers Market
10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturdays, June-September
trailerparked.com
TO, OM, $$
(517) 482-5700