Viva Verterra

Michigan's newest vineyard is creating bewitching (and prize-winning) wines

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As fall colors explode in full splendor, and freshlypicked grapes begin their metamorphosis into fine wine, what bettertime to enjoy a weekend excursion to one of Michigan’s fine winetrails? And there is no better time for an introduction to Michigan’snewest winery and tasting room, Verterra Winery.

The village of Leland, bordering Lake Michigan on thewestern shore of the Leelanau Peninsula, has long been a destinationfor wine country venturers, sailors, fishermen and enthusiasts of theM-22 circuit along Lake Michigan. Leland is surrounded by nearbywineries and tasting rooms, but it has always lacked its own.  Notanymore: Verterra (loosely a contraction of Latin words for truth andearth) is tucked away in an historic building that is vintage on theoutside and oh-so-clean and modern on the inside.

Before arriving at the tasting room as finished wine, thegrapes are grown in several meticulously tended vineyards, after whichveteran wine maker Shawn Walters is responsible for completing thetransformation from grape to wine. During the last several years,Walters has made wines that have achieved best of class, double goldand gold medal status in both the Michigan Wine and Spirits Competitionand other national competitions.

True to that history, straight out of the blocks,Verterra received medals for seven different wines at the 2011 MichiganWine and Spirits Competition, and received a gold medal for its PinotBlanc and a silver medal for its Gewrztraminer at the DenverInternational Wine Competition. Winning wine entries at the Michigancompetition included gold medals for 2010 Reserve Red and 2010 UnwoodedChardonnay, silver medals for 2010 Gewrztraminer, Pinot Blanc, PinotGris and Riesling and a bronze for the 2010 Pinot Noir.

It seems Verterra has announced its arrival with a roar. 

My notes concerning several of these wines justified theaccolades. All wines are from the outstanding 2010 vintage. The PinotBlanc was very clean and refreshing, with hints of pear and a lingeringsoft mouth feel touched with a bit of mineral. Unwooded Chardonnay wascrisp, with overtones of apple and citrus, and excellent balance.

The Reserve Chardonnay from the same grapes, but withdifferent vinification techniques, went through full malolacticfermentation and was aged in double-size new French oak barrels. Thiswine was still tight, closed and muted. It needs more time, but showsgreat promise. 

The Pinot Gris displayed pineapple, melon, a citrus noseand broad, viscous mouth feel. Sweet fruit was balanced by acid.Verterra Riesling has a sweeter edge with broad soft flavors, but notthe bracing acidity sometimes characteristic of Riesling. The aromaticsshould evolve with a bit more time in the bottle.  

Gewrztraminer is a lower acid wine.  Finished with modest residual sugars, this style of wine is a good companion for Thai foods.

On the red side of the equation, Verterra Pinot Noir isaged in 100 percent French oak. Created from four separate clones ofPinot Noir, this wine is light ruby red, light in texture and quitequaffable, with pleasing red fruit flavors.

The Reserve Red steps up the intensity a bit. A blend ofMerlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, aged in 100 percent new American andFrench oak, this juice has a significantly deeper and richer flavorprofile. It should age well in a cool cellar, but it is drinking justfine now.

 Although nottasted, Verterra is making the obligatory Northern Michigan cherry wineand will be releasing a cherry dessert wine.  In addition, look for a hard cider on the tasting room shelf, which Verterra is marketing under the Chaos label.

So after expending the effort to drive to Leland and visit Verterra, what next?  Fortunately,Leland caters to a wide variety of tastes and interests, all within afew minutes stroll. One might start the day with a tasty breakfast atthe Early Bird.  Fishtown, apreserved historic fishing village, is nestled next to the recentlyrenovated marina. Visitors there can find hats, artwork, shoes,clothing, cheese curds, sandwiches, local wines, fresh smoked jerky andfish — and even catch a ferry ride to the Manitou Islands.

Or wander around town, visiting Two Fish Gallery and MainStreet Gallery, shop at Haystacks or Molly’s, or find artwork, jewelryand other collectibles at Tampico. 

In the mood for exercise? Check out Geo Bike for bikerental/repair and in-season cross-country ski rental. After working upa hunger, partake of fine cuisine and wine at The Cove, Riverside Innor Bluebird (don’t miss the unique cinnamon buns with dinner). Bluebirdproprietor Skip Telgard also co-owns the vineyards that form thebackbone of Verterra wines and he is justifiably proud of the fine winebeing made from his grapes.

For more information about Verterra Winery and the village of Leland, check out www.verterrawinery.com and www.LelandMi.com. 

In vino veritas


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