Don't let the name fool you

If the renown of Dusty’s Cellar doesn’t precede yourvisit, its name might give the impression that a visit to a second-handstore is in the works.  

What you’ll discover, though, along with vintage wines and a unique gourmet boutique, is some of the finest dining around town.   

And in this area, where many restaurateurs purposefullyavoid such a classification in fear of missing out on a buck, Dusty’sholds its head high.

Our experience began with the apparent maitre d’ asking if we had made reservations for our early Thursday evening visit:  Reservations,it turns out, are advised. The gentleman’s superciliously raisedeyebrows met our response that no, we had not made reservations, so aseat at the bar or on the heated, enclosed Leelanau Patio was offered.

The patio was quieter than the main dining room, and wehappily settled into patio’s cool, metal mesh chairs and began toperuse Dusty’s leather-bound menu. 

Table service is well executed at Dusty’s. Clad inall-black, the serving staff is friendly, knowledgeable and purposeful.Our server’s timing was spot-on throughout the evening: He answered (orfound answers) to our questions about the food, made gentlerecommendations and appeared only when necessary — a skill manyover-attentive servers never master.  The pacing was superb.

We started with an avocado and jicama spring roll ($10).  Aninteresting attempt at fusion came with a fresh, cumin-seasoned slaw,and my thinking was that it would be a light start to the heavierentrées we ordered.

While the creamy texture and natural oil of the avocadogot lost in the slightly over-fried spring roll, and the jicama did notimpart the fresh crunch I had hoped for, the dish did come with adelicious, delicate house-made citrus marmalade.  In the end, this appetizer’s fantastic parts just didn’t come together as a whole.

The meal brightened quickly with our salads, which werefresh and full of flavor. My companion chose an anchovy-filled caesarand I had the romaine wedge with bleu cheese dressing.  Withmy salad, tomatoes and red onions mixed into the background, the fruitadding a touch of sweetness that helped balance the bitterness of thecheese and toasted walnuts. The walnuts and bleu cheese, forcefulflavors individually, played well, both demanding attention but notoverpowering the other.

The porterhouse with mashed potatoes and vegetables ($34)was the evening’s special. Cooked exactly to order (in this case,medium rare), the porterhouse, with tenderloin on one side of the boneand short loin on the other, was alternately elegant or rustic,depending on which side a cut was made. Like the T-bone, it’s a fun cutof beef.  

The potatoes — fluffy, with a hint of garlic — greenbeans and petite zucchini and carrots rounded out a dish beloved fromTexas to the Upper Peninsula.

We went with the maple-glazed quail ($23) for our secondentrée. Crispy skin held the glaze, but the sweet maple mixedbeautifully with the simple pretty, burnt-orange-colored squash thatserved as a bed to the dish. The stuffing in the bird — a mixture ofwild rice and (the menu claimed) spicy chorizo that tasted more likesmoked ham — was a tad strong solo, but when combined with mouthfuls ofthe subtle gaminess of the quail, with its dark, juicy meat, the dishcame together nicely.

After two full meals, a heavy appetizer and salads, dessert might be eschewed.  But at Dusty’s, with a staff attuned to letting diners dine at their own pace, there is no hurry.

Even after we had plenty to eat, dessert was going to happen.

The key lime pie ($6), our server told us, was the onlynon-Dusty’s creation on the dessert menu. No matter. Served with anever-so-tart raspberry sauce, the mildly acidic pie, velvety in textureand just a touch sweet, paired well with a cup of fresh coffee ($2.50). 

What stood out from the final dish, though, was a smalltouch, a little detail: white chocolate mousse accompanied the pie. Thestar-shaped dollops, mild and milky in flavor, were silky smooth,melting in the mouth and disappearing into little daydreams. Theirimpressions let go begrudgingly, leaving nothing but a happy littlesmile; a fine flourish to an excellent evening.

Dusty’s is the kind of place a penny-pincher might balkat, but what’s refreshing is that you get what you pay for — greatservice, fine food and a relaxing evening.  That’s not an easy find, especially for the budget-conscious.

If you’re looking for fine dining that caters to youwithout one-size-fits-all, scripted service, Dusty’s Cellar is waitingfor your reservation.

Dusty’s Cellar

Suite A

1839 W. Grand River Ave., Okemos

Hours: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday; 7 a.m.– 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday

www.dustyscellar.com

(517) 349-5150