Gump’s BBQ is a testament to the power of word-of-mouth advertising. There’s no reason it should still be open.

It’s in a terrible location, tucked behind Kwik Car Wash, with only a barely-visible-from-Cedar-Street “BBQ” banner marking its River Street entrance. It’s tiny, with seating for less than 20 people, and it doesn’t even open on the weekends or for weekday dinner.

Yet from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, Craig “Gump” Garmyn serves up loaded breakfast burritos and hefty sandwiches to a steady stream of Lansing’s blue collar types and anyone else curious enough to check out this off-the-beaten-path barbecue joint.

My favorite sandwich here is the Cubano, which features pulled pork, ham, Swiss cheese, sliced pickle and yellow mustard.

There are a lot of good Cuban sandwiches in town nowadays, but Gump’s generous portions of smoked pork really make this sandwich stand out. You get two sides with your sandwich, and you should make sure that one of them is the hearty, house-made coleslaw. There’s no soupy Gordon Food Service slaw here, just fresh veggies in a tasty vinaigrette dressing.

Gump’s BBQ
7 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday, closed Saturday and Sunday
1105 River St., Lansing
(517) 708-0470,