Bento’s creative cuisine will cause cravings

By GABRIELLE LAWRENCE

It was the tofu that first attracted my attention. During the thick of the pandemic, we were all staying home. My lunches had become centered around rice bowls with finely shaved carrot, green onion and sardines, and the ever-present rinsed-out tins in the kitchen sink and their accompanying aroma were disturbing the household. (Read: Mr. She Ate thinks sardines are gross.) I saw a Facebook ad promoting Bento Kitchen Cravings’ tofu rice bowls and decided that it couldn’t hurt to try one. I’ve been ordering them ever since.

Tofu is another polarizing ingredient in our household. I find it to be a great source of protein when it’s well seasoned and properly prepared. Mr. She Ate will eat it, begrudgingly, when I decide it’s all I’m willing to prepare for dinner. Nowadays, I find myself ordering it in restaurants more frequently than preparing it at home, and Bento has my favorite tofu in town.

From 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., rice bowls are on special. I fire up the Toast app and order the seasoned tofu bowl ($11.50), which comes with purple rice, steamed vegetables and hot sauce and kimchi if you prefer. (I always prefer). Let me talk about the health benefits briefly. Kimchi, or thinly sliced vegetables like cabbage and radish that are fermented and spiced to a varying degree of heat, is a ubiquitous condiment in Korean cooking. It’s high in probiotics and fiber, and if you haven’t tried it, I couldn’t encourage you more to give it a whirl.

My second-favorite and second-most-ordered item at Bento is the orange shrimp rice bowl ($14.50). The shrimp are huge and perfectly crisp, and the sauce complements and doesn’t overpower. The purple rice is high in antioxidants, fiber, protein and iron. The vegetable medley — think zucchini, carrots and onion — is lightly steamed, never mushy.

Essentially, the tofu or the orange shrimp rice bowl is my dream lunch: high in flavor, topping the charts in nutritional value and easy to eat. By that, I mean that I love a giant salad wholeheartedly, but sometimes I don’t have the time or inclination to be bothered with forking up all those bites of food and investing that much chew time. I need something that eliminates those barriers and, let’s be honest, something that I can inhale in my car in between court hearings, county commission meetings and alternating nights of T-ball and machine-pitch baseball for my children. Consider all boxes checked.

Mr. She Ate can’t quit the bulgogi burrito ($12). He loves the light sweetness of the bulgogi with the heartiness of the burrito. We’ve also tried and loved the bulgogi-topped fries, which I’m telling myself are a more mature version of the bacon-cheese fries I ate so many times during college. The kids like the plain fries, which aren’t “too spicy,” and the chicken wings, which can be prepared without sauce the way they like them.

So as to not mislead the public, I’ve tried other dishes at Bento, and I haven’t completely lost my mind over all of them. So many people in the Lansing Foodies Facebook group have been singing the praises of the birria pizza ($16.50) that I had to try it. However, it’s too rich for me. I need something to cut through the richness of the meat and cheese, like a pickled onion. But, based on the comments in the abovementioned Facebook group, I’m absolutely in the minority with this opinion.

Bento was, locally speaking, an earlier adopter of the Toast app, which makes ordering takeout incredibly easy. You can customize all the dishes, like asking for light rice in your rice bowl, double protein or no kimchi (although doing that is sacrilege). Bento also has an incredible array of teas, smoothies and desserts. If you’re a newcomer, my advice is to start with a rice bowl so you can try a few different proteins over a few visits and then look for other dishes that include your favorites. When the colder weather returns, switch over to ramen. Bento is consistently one of my favorite places to eat, worth braving the insanity that is Frandor traffic.

By BRYAN BEVERLY

The Frandor Shopping Center has seen highs and lows over the years. I long for the days when it was a bustling indoor complex of commerce where Cobbler’s Bench, Seasons and my all-time favorite, Grande Gourmet, offered the latest in fashion, interior design and culinary arts. In the late ‘90s, the shift back to an outdoor mall was a response to the competing shopping meccas on the far extensions of the Lansing area, the Meridian and Lansing malls. Since then, Frandor has seen many stores, restaurants and entertainment spots come and go. At one point, a single storefront was a sports bar, comedy club, billiards hall and poker hub, attempting earnestly to keep up with consumer demands.

Today, Frandor seems to be finding a new groove, anchored by a national grocery brand and several retail options for home, fashion or pet needs, including my co-reviewer’s favorite spot to shop, World Market. Additionally, the Montgomery Drain project on Frandor’s eastern border offers new biking and walking trails, holding ponds, rain gardens, waterfall features and fountains. The food scene also offers a wide variety of options, and this month’s topic of review, Bento Kitchen Cravings, is the best of the bunch.

Opened as a Korean and Japanese fusion restaurant in 2019, the spot continues to add new items with Latin and American flair. Inside, the 10 or so tables offer diners space to enjoy Korean bibimbap bowls while they’re still piping hot or a chance to imbibe boozy versions of boba teas. “Bento” is a Japanese-style takeout meal, often served for lunch, that comes in a portioned box with rice, protein and veggies. As I sat at midday, many people were taking advantage of the to-go option. Bento is also a popular carryout destination for the non-boozy versions of its boba teas, milk teas and smoothies.

What’s good

Birria, the western Mexican slow-cooked meat dish, has grown in popularity over the last few years, thanks to a boost from social media. Bento’s version is served in quesadilla, burrito, rice bowl or pizza forms and comes with the typical garnish of salsa and a cup of hot beef consommé for dipping. The birria pizza ($16.50) is a pizza-sized quesadilla filled with meat and cheese, with more cheese crusted atop the tortilla shells. The consommé has depth of flavor, and the salsa has the right amount of acidity and heat. The beef brisket inside is tender and packed with adobo flavor (chilis, garlic and herbs).

I’m also a fan of the crab rangoons ($7.50) and the chicken bites ($9). The rangoons are bursting with a creamy seafood mix, with green onion thrown in for flavor and texture. The Korean fried chicken bites are crispy, with a mild dusting of spices that work so well with the accompanying spicy mayo.

What’s really good

The spicy Sichuan dumplings ($8.50), delicate pouches filled with ground chicken, garlic and ginger, could stand alone as a delectable entrée. Yet, when slathered in the fierce chili oil and topped with green onion, the bites reach another level. The heat isn’t for weak palates, but those who are brave enough will enjoy them without question.

The Sichuan udon with bulgogi ($15) offers a delightful combination of sweet, savory and spicy. Bulgogi is beef marinated in soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and onion. When combined with the wok-fried udon noodles and veggies, this dish is a hit. Make sure to get a side of the Korean sauce to take the flavor profile up several notches.

Best bite

Hands down, the winner this month is the orange shrimp ($18). Served with purple rice (or forbidden rice, historically reserved for the wealthy in ancient China because of the health benefits), this dish hits on every cylinder. The shrimp are massive when compared to most other shrimp dishes, and the sauce is amazing. Think of the best General Tso’s sauce you’ve ever had, and I guarantee this one’s better. It’s so good that I’m ordering more through DoorDash as I write this review, because Frandor’s parking lot is still a nightmare.