From creative handhelds to sizeable salads, Tipsy Nickel elevates the basics

By GABRIELLE  LAWRENCE

Since taking office as a county commissioner following the 2022 election, I spend a few evenings each month in Mason, which, as it turns out, is adorable. There’s a combination independent bookstore and coffee shop, several unique gift shops, a taco truck and, in the coming weeks, there will be an enormous Santa Claus and a mailbox where kids can drop off their North Pole-bound letters. There’s also a locally owned brewery, a historic courthouse and Westside Deli, the now-defunct Frandor location of which I remember frequenting during my childhood. The pizza and breadsticks still slap.

But my attention this month was turned to the Tipsy Nickel Bar & Grille, which used to be Darb’s Tavern & Eatery, but that was before my time in Mason. The Tipsy Nickel looks like a log cabin and is accordingly cozy on the inside, with limited seating, a playlist that isn’t too country-focused and an attentive waitstaff. One busy Friday a few weeks ago had me running from court to court between Clinton, Eaton and Ingham counties, and while in Mason, I decided to place a takeout order for dinner.

Mr. She Ate and I swapped roles that day. He chose the steak cobb salad ($20), which was underwhelming. The lettuce wasn’t crisp, and while the addition of chickpeas was tasty and welcome, he didn’t care for the balsamic vinaigrette at all. But, as I told him, that’s what he gets for ordering a salad at a bar.

I had the pork tenderloin melt ($15) and fared much better. At this time of year, if a food item has cranberries, apples, cinnamon, butternut squash, rosemary or any other late-fall or winter flavor incorporated into it, I’m in. East Lansing’s new Trader Joe’s absolutely loves to see me coming — if you haven’t had the almond-butter-stuffed pretzels or the maple-spiced nut mix, please add them to your list of snacks to pick up.

The sandwich wasn’t something I’d typically choose, but I’m glad I did. The tenderloin was thickly sliced and juicy, and the creaminess of the mascarpone played nicely with the cranberry relish, with a light hint of spice from the poblanos. I stood over the stove and ate much of it before Mr. She Ate asked me if I was going to join the rest of the family at the table, which pretty well encapsulates how frantic life has been in the She Ate household lately.

I will admit, I tore into the takeout containers and started eating the fries during the drive from Mason back to north Lansing. I justified it by telling myself that fries are best when they’re fresh, and I owed it to the Tipsy Nickel to eat them as soon as possible. While this is true, I also didn’t have enough self-control at the time to smell the fries and drive 20 minutes without eating them. I’m happy I did — they were shatteringly crisp and well-seasoned. The children gobbled the rest of them up, along with the additional order of fries I got for them.

On a return trip for lunch, I chose the Thai chicken peanut wrap ($15). I don’t typically love wraps (too much bread), but I was intrigued by these flavors. I appreciate the intention with the dish, but the vegetables weren’t crisp or flavorful enough, and the whole thing would have benefited from a healthy infusion of ginger. I would stuff the wrap with thinly sliced purple cabbage, cucumber and carrot and add the peanut sauce, chicken and edamame for textural contrast.

Mr. She Ate had a club sandwich ($16), a favorite of his and his litmus test for a good sandwich restaurant. This one looked mediocre, and the taste supported that impression. Elevated ingredients would go a long way in improving the experience, such as thick, bakery-style bread; vibrant, crunchy lettuce; and maybe a garlic aioli to add more flavor. But the fries remained excellent, and as I suspected, the side of ranch into which we dipped them was fantastic.

By BRYAN BEVERLY

I don’t get over to Mason much. My professional roles don’t require me to engage with county government very often, unless I’m popping in to see my dear mentor Derrick Quinney, register of deeds. On those few visits, I’ve noticed a sprinkling of interesting food options around the courthouse. So, when my co-reviewer and I landed on the Tipsy Nickel as our destination this month, I was excited to step into an unknown-to-me corner of the community.

Standing at the site of the former Darb’s Tavern & Eatery and on the shoulders of its sister restaurant, Dansville’s Wooden Nickel II, the Tipsy Nickel is a family-owned business serving higher-end pub fare and signature cocktails to treat locals and new visitors alike. Nightly specials include prime rib and seafood boils, and the autumnal drink is hot apple cider.

The restaurant has a classic bar feel with modern touches and an intimate vibe. I saw customers having both dinner with friends and casual drinks. The dim lighting and rustic decor create a welcoming atmosphere, ideal for unwinding after a long day. It also has an outdoor patio, which offers a more relaxed space to enjoy your meal or sip a cold beer while people-watching in downtown Mason — weather permitting.

The staff is attentive, friendly and genuinely seem to enjoy what they do. Whether you’re seated at the bar or in the dining area, you’ll soon be greeted with a smile and offered prompt service. The bartenders are skilled drink crafters, and servers are efficient without being overbearing. I just wish someone would’ve stepped in when one seemingly regular bar fly pontificated about his relationships and political beliefs at decibel levels unbecoming for others wanting to enjoy their own thoughts. 

What’s OK

I’ve tried a lot of brisket over the years — it’s one of my favorite things to order off any barbecue menu. Typically, the meat is smoked for many hours, creating a flavorful crust and a deep smokiness that transports you to the middle of West Texas or another barbecue haven with every bite. Sadly, the brisket tacos ($16) lacked those notes of true brisket. Perhaps the smokiness was masked by the competing flavors of the apple-kale slaw and tzatziki sauce, but when examining the overly gray chunks of meat, I couldn’t discern any seasoning on the meat itself. The tacos were stuffed full, and three would be enough for a solid meal.

What’s good

The calamari appetizer ($15) was fried perfectly and arrived as a generous portion. I paired it with a seasonal beer and really appreciated how the black pepper on the calamari balanced so well with the orange marmalade dipping sauce. A little citrusy kick went a long way.

Also quite yummy was the spinach salad ($19), which contained a perfectly medium salmon steak, green apples, dried cranberries and candied pecans. The star was the apple cider vinaigrette, which should be bottled and sold separately.

Best bite

The signature PB&J burger ($16) has been a topic of discussion in local foodie circles for a while, and it did not disappoint. The half-pound handheld was well seasoned and served on a pretzel bun. Usually, that would be enough for a winner, but the Tipsy Nickel took it up several notches with cheddar cheese, maple-bacon jam, caramelized onions and maple syrup.

You might be asking yourself, “But what about the peanut butter?” Let me say, it was a high note among all those other delicious melodies. It offered a creaminess and earthiness that you wouldn’t think you’d need, but given all the other components, it helped to marry everything together.

The Tipsy Nickel Bar & Grille

117 S. Cedar St., Mason

11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday

(517) 676-6943

www.tipsynickel.com