Paradise Biryani Pointe’s goat is the GOAT

While the standard Indian restaurant dishes, like chicken tikka masala and saag paneer, are standards for a reason, I always feel compelled to branch out and try new things, especially at eateries that are new to me. It’s sort of a shot-in-the-dark, show-me-what-you’ve-got experience. I’m happy to report that Okemos’ Paradise Biryani Pointe did not disappoint.

Korma is a curry dish whose name comes from the Hindi-Urdu word “qormā,” meaning “to braise.” In the case of my selection, the goat korma, the goat meat was braised in stock with yogurt and cashew paste, making for a velvety, rich, deep-brown gravy that contained a dizzying blend of aromatic spices — cardamom, garlic, ginger and bay leaf, to name a few. Served over fluffy, floral-scented basmati rice, it was spicy, complex and just a little gamey. I think goat meat is an amazing protein, and I will almost always order it when it’s an option. I stole some peanut chutney that came with my dining companion’s goat biryani, which made the flavors even deeper and more delectable.

What really made the meal stand out, though, was the naan. Naan (or dosa or roti) is an important accompaniment to any Indian meal, and it’s equally important to explore your topping and filling options beyond butter and garlic. I chose the peshwari naan, which was filled with dried, crushed fruits and coconut. The bread was soft but slightly charred and crispy at the edges, just how I like it. The interplay between the deeply savory curry and the sweetness of the dried fruits was magical, and dipping the naan straight in the peanut chutney and some also-stolen raita, a yogurt-cucumber sauce, was a worthy meal in itself just by its volume and intensity of flavor.

I’ll end with two suggestions. 1. Always order as many kinds of chutney as the restaurant has available, as I sadly forgot to do in this instance. I’m talking coconut, mint, tamarind, tomato and peanut. Get some raita, too. I’ll usually order at least three of these to add to the kaleidoscope of flavors this cuisine boasts. Raita is also useful if things get a bit too spicy. 2. Next time you get Indian food, try something you haven’t before. The tried-and-trues are almost irresistible, I know, but as Paradise Biryani — and almost every other Indian eatery I’ve dined at — will prove, it’s well worth the risk.