SaltRock Brewing Co. surprises with chophouse-esque menu

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Downtown Lansing is a proving ground for many businesses and restaurants, and as several organizational mainstays like the state government and the insurance industry continue to find their way back after the pandemic, the need for more places to dine and gather grows.

Through the fall, foot traffic around Washington Square seemed to be increasing by the week, and the Michigan Avenue corridor reinvents itself nearly every quarter with new ventures that put a fresh spin on old spaces. The areas adjacent to Jackson Field, home of the Lugnuts, have become a jewel in the community with their modern housing options and dining and drinking venues. One could argue that the big comeback folks have been awaiting for generations has begun in earnest.

What’s less obvious to an untrained eye — but equally as exciting — are the smaller developments on streets just off the beaten path. The Allen Neighborhood Center, with its farmers market and incubator kitchen, is one shining example of the impact that investments in spatial rehabilitation can have on a localized community. Such is the hope for the new businesses on West Ionia Street that occupy the historic Bailey Buildings. Hair United, an inclusive salon, occupies one of the buildings, and this month’s focus, SaltRock Brewing Co., inhabits the other.

SaltRock opened in July and was immediately welcomed as a change of pace, with a menu that’s more reminiscent of a chophouse than a brewpub. A short walk from the Capitol, it offers a vibe similar to the eateries of Tribeca in New York City, Hyde Park in Chicago or Wallingford in Seattle — industrial-chic décor, flavors that push the envelope and a beer, wine and spirits selection worthy of brunch or happy hour for statesmen and stateswomen. It also has one of the happiest staffs I’ve seen of late. Competent and attentive, they seemed to enjoy the company of one another and that of their guests. So, what about the food?

What’s rocky

Lobster mac and cheese ($10) appears on many steakhouse menus, and SaltRock has followed suit. The mac was creamy on the bottom and crispy on top, and black pepper dominated the flavor profile. By itself, it wasn’t so bad, but the previously frozen lobster meat was more reminiscent of hours-old bubble gum in texture and not far off in flavor. I’d order the cheaper, plainer version next time.

Also lacking in flavor and visually displeasing enough that I was surprised it made it to my table was the beer cheese that accompanied the loaded fries ($7). This sauce had been simmering beyond recognition, and any semblance of taste had long since disappeared.

What’s really good

The smoked deviled eggs ($11) were much closer to my expectations for the ambitious menu. The filling was creamy with a hint of tartness, and the bacon and green onion offered textural contrast. Each egg was dusted with a barbecue dry rub that offered a perfect amount of smokiness. Diners will find it tough to share the plate of five.

The cherry and blue cheese salad ($20 with salmon addition) was also very good. The complementary flavors of tart dried cherries and creamy blue cheese worked even better with the refreshing raspberry vinaigrette. The salmon was cooked quite nicely and was seasoned well, but it didn’t overpower the rest of the salad.

The kaffir lime crème brûlée ($9) was delectable and sweet without blowing out my tastebuds with sugar — just rich enough to reappear in my daydream over my morning coffee.

Best bite

This category was a true toss-up this month. On my first visit, the 8-ounce USDA choice filet ($47) was divine. Perfectly medium rare, with a crust that would make any summer grill master jealous, the steak was clearly well rested before it was served because not a drop of red appeared on the wood plating board when I cut into it. Tender and flavorful with minimal fat to carve away, it was obvious SaltRock does steak right.

I was sure the steak was going to be the runaway favorite this month until I ordered the walleye sandwich ($18). Battered with a cornmeal crust, the large slab of fish poked out from every side of the brioche bun. Topped with house tartar sauce and crunchy house slaw, this handheld should be a shining star in the Lansing food scene for years to come.

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