Early March is an unpredictable time in Michigan. Some years, the ground is still blanketed by snow, and the doldrums of winter continue to punish spirits and motivation. Other years, the break in the wintry weather is merely just clouds and cold, damp conditions that also aren’t great for inspiring impulsive decisions or exploration. This year, with its warmer temps and sunny days, has prompted many around mid-Michigan to shake off the winter gloom and step outside.  

This month’s review took me to a prime community destination for warmer-weather dining. Since its opening in 2018, Looking Glass Brewing Co. has been a vibrant element of DeWitt’s culinary scene, offering high-level gastropub fare, hyperlocally brewed beer and intriguing monthly specials. (This month’s are designed for St. Patrick’s Day, March Madness and Lent). The 73-degree weather on Friday (March 14) brought lots of patrons out to the patio, each soaking up rays of sunshine as they imbibed draft ales and pilsners or house-made mocktails.  

The light is nearly equally present inside since Looking Glass is a renovated church with breathtakingly beautiful stained-glass windows that illuminate the wide-open dining and bar areas. The altar-situated kitchen pumps out sandwiches, flatbreads, burgers, pasta and smoked meats. The bar has become a beer connoisseur’s dream, with both a red ale and an Irish stout serving as the monthly special. The staff is knowledgeable and highly professional, delivering food and beverages with an affable flourish. This is a great place to catch a game or tickle your foodie fancy. 

What’s bright 

I had some windows of time within a very busy week to stop into Looking Glass and taste some of its local brews. I was mightily impressed, but even more so by the caliber of conversations about beers with guests who clearly know about it more than I do. There was considerable giddiness about the Penny Whistle Irish red ale ($5). It was mildly sweet for an ale and had enough depth for me without being overpowering.  

I’m admittedly on the less-knowledgeable end of beer enthusiasts, but I also tasted the blue raspberry and ginger-peach ciders ($6.25 each). Both were quite good, and while the blue raspberry is a fan favorite, the ginger-peach was superior in taste, depth and punch.  

What’s vibrant 

I had to pause my personal belief that combining imitation crab meat and real lobster meat is sacrilegious when tasting the crab and lobster BLT ($16). That said, once I bit into the sandwich, I enjoyed the crunch of the lettuce, the savory smokiness of the bacon and the creamy, sweet notes from the seafood salad. The lobster claw chucks were plump, and the brioche bun was a nice vehicle. I loved the side of house-made truffle fries ($8), which were thin-cut and dusted with a truffle seasoning that elevated the fries rather than dominating them. 

The veggie pasta ($16) was also a hit. Cavatappi was joined by roasted Brussels sprouts, portobello mushrooms, caramelized onions and sun-dried tomatoes. Yet it was the combination of the roasted garlic sauce and fresh basil that made this dish dance. The portion size was large, and my much better half easily had enough for lunch the next day.  

The Korean hot chicken sandwich ($15) was flavorful and large, but a few too many components made it a challenge to eat. Pickle-brined chicken breast was coated in a spicy Korean barbecue sauce and then topped with pickles, pepper jack cheese and a traditional coleslaw. I’d suggest the kitchen swap out the creamy slaw for a kimchi-based slaw that’s more on theme but still brings the crunch diners enjoy. 

Best bite 

I’m a sucker for a po’boy, the French baguette sandwich popularized in low-country cooking. I’m heading to New Orleans at the end of the month and can’t wait to dig into some authentic shrimp or red snapper po’boys. To get my taste buds warmed up, Looking Glass offered a fried grouper po’boy ($16) that hit several spots: cornmeal-crusted fish, fried just hard enough, with pickles, coleslaw that didn’t soak the baguette and a slight kick from the remoulade. I relished every bite like the patio patrons worshipped the early spring sun.