Cask & Co.: Jack of all trades, master of most

By GABRIELLE LAWRENCE

I’m surprised that before this assignment, I had never been to Cask & Co. Not only is the restaurant extremely close to my house, but there are bowls on the menu.

Bowls have become a trendy menu item. In my experience, they’re essentially a one-stop shop kind of meal, containing some type of grain (which can usually be swapped out for greens because the target audience is women who were personally victimized by Atkins, like myself) as well as different veggies, a protein and usually a fun sauce or some other bonus like crunchy breadcrumbs or gremolata.

I’m a sucker for bowls. They’re my ideal weekday lunch. However, I was also made nervous by the size of the menu at Cask & Co. When a single restaurant offers sushi, burgers and pasta, I become concerned that this is a “jack of all trades, master of none” situation.

With trepidation, I met two professional colleagues for lunch on a Friday afternoon. We walked into a restaurant that was jumping: groups of co-workers taking a fun lunch, girlfriends chit-chatting, dudes having a beer. The place was busy, and I was encouraged.

We perused the menu and decided to start with the crab Rangoon dip ($15), which was cheesy and creamy as expected. It was served with extremely crispy fried naan, which was unexpected and delightful.

True to form, I ordered the Maui bowl ($19), with a base of half rice and half greens. The bowl was packed with raw salmon and tuna, sliced avocado, cucumber, edamame, seaweed salad and sesame seeds. It was fresh, nourishing and filling, and I ate literally every bite.

My friends had pad Thai ($16) and a Nashville hot chicken sandwich ($15), both of which looked delicious and garnered rave reviews. They also each had a beer or two, which I guess qualifies as cutting loose when you’re a bunch of parents having a lunch meeting to talk about mutual clients and all the sports games you’re going to drive your kids to over the weekend. How times have changed.

I returned a few days later for lunch with a girlfriend. We nestled ourselves in a quiet booth, all the better to gossip uninterrupted. We started with Brussels sprouts ($15), which could have been crispier but were topped with a deliciously tangy slaw that made up for the texture.

I moved on to the Mediterranean chicken tacos ($16), which should be called Indian street tacos or something similar because they’re much more Indian-inspired than Mediterranean. The chicken is marinated in curry and yogurt, flavors popular in Indian cuisine, and the taco “shells” are made of naan. They were fine, but there are multiple items on the menu that I would choose next before returning to the tacos. Chiefly, I want to try the duck sloppy Joe, the grilled cheese and the Cobb salad.

Now that I’ve figured out how to navigate the one-way streets between my house and Cask & Co. and where to park (behind the building), I’m confident I will have lots of future opportunities to give these a whirl.

 

 

By BRYAN BEVERLY

As I’ve written before in regard to Bento Kitchen Cravings and Middle Eats, Frandor’s food scene is on the come up. From decades-old breakfast spots to a wide array of ethnic eateries to national chains finally planting a flag, this side of town is flourishing with dining options.

There’s “a place to eat,” and then there’s a place where you feel connected. That’s exactly what Cask & Co. Kitchen & Bar delivers on. Part gastropub, part global kitchen, part community living room, Cask & Co. strikes a unique balance that keeps the restaurant bustling on a Tuesday afternoon or a Valentine’s Day weekend. What truly sets this place apart isn’t the food or the beer list — it’s the personality behind it.

Owners Frank and Michelle Cheng are the heartbeat of the restaurant. Fellow diners often remarked how present and engaged the owners were, moving through the dining room, greeting regulars by name and checking in with guests as if they had invited them into their own home. That personal touch is evident in every detail, from the care poured into the drinks to the way the staff seems genuinely glad to serve. Whether it’s a recommendation from the bartender or a friendly chat with a server about life in Lansing, there’s a sense that Cask & Co. is more than a place to grab a bite to eat — it’s part of your night out.

What was good

On my first visit for this review, I got takeout for lunch. I ordered at the back-door kiosk and waited a short 12 minutes for my food to be ready. I started with the burnt ends ($15), which were coated in a brown sugar and whiskey glaze and served with a pleasant Asian slaw and three dipping sauces: Korean barbecue, sweet barbecue and Guillermo sauce. The Korean barbecue was my favorite because it paired best with the slaw, though the meat itself was far tougher than it should have been.

The massive Nashville hot chicken sandwich ($15) was fried nicely, with a crunchy texture. However, the sauce was merely drizzled on top. I would have preferred for them to toss it to coat the meat evenly. 

Because the menu is so wide ranging, I decided to add two pieces of fresh crab nigiri ($8/each).  The lump crab meat was tasty and sweet, and the accompanying ginger and wasabi elevated the flavor profile.

What was better

My valentine and I saddled up to the bar Saturday afternoon to take advantage of a rare (and unplanned) break from the littles in our lives. We arrived just ahead of Cask & Co.’s reservation window and enjoyed our first taste of the Winter Olympics on the screens as we sipped riesling ($11, for her) and white sangria ($10, for me). Both were refreshing and crisp.

We ordered the Brussels sprouts ($15), which were charred to perfection and topped with cranberries, apple cider vinegar and sliced almonds. We really liked them but regretted not adding prosciutto for an additional $2; that extra layer of savory smokiness would surely take this appetizer to the next level.

My much better half overestimated her heat tolerance when ordering the yummy crunch roll ($15). The tempura crunch, avocado and cucumber were all on point, but the spicy crab had too much heat for her, so she removed most of it. The piece I tasted was delicious. Sadly, the side order of french fries ($8) never arrived.

Best bite

I have a new go-to sushi order. The surf and turf roll ($22), filled with lump crab and asparagus and topped with beef carpaccio, a white citrus sauce, Korean barbecue sauce and sriracha, is worth every penny. Spicy, sweet, savory, bright — this roll has it all, and I want more.