La Mulata es muy excelente

She Ate

One of the best parts of being the “She” of “She Ate/He Ate” is that I frequently find myself at restaurants that likely never would have made their way into my consciousness otherwise. That was the case with this month’s subject of review, La Mulata, which was suggested by my illustrious co-reviewer, who was eager to try the new-ish Cuban restaurant.

I met some friends for dinner on a Wednesday evening before we made our way to the Wharton Center, and getting there at 5 p.m. before a 7:30 show meant we had lots of time to order plenty of food, talk our faces off, share a dessert and make it across town in time to grab a water before settling in for “Clue.”

We wanted to sample a wide array of items. We started with the malanga fritters ($10.99) and a bean-and-cheese empanada ($4.99). Malanga is like a potato, and the fritters were reminiscent of tater tots. The fritters came with an incredibly pungent, incredibly delicious garlic sauce that we requested more of, though the batter was a bit thicker than I prefer. I quickly moved on to the empanada, which was flavorful and lip-smacking. One more of them and I could have been happily done eating. 

I persevered. We decided to try three of the menu items that looked the most delicious and share them. We selected the churrasco ($29.99), the roast pork cerdo asado ($16.99) and the ropa vieja ($22.99). 

Churrasco is grilled steak, typically flank or skirt steak, thinly sliced and usually served with chimichurri. I’m a longtime lover of flank steak, but that cut can become tough very quickly and easily, which I experienced here. The chimichurri (an herb-heavy sauce) was to die for, but we quickly abandoned the steak for greener pastures. 

The pork was slow roasted until it was luxuriously shreddable, and I happily dunked forkfuls into the aforementioned garlic sauce while alternating between bites of rice and black beans. But the clear winner of the evening was the ropa vieja, a traditional Cuban dish of slow-cooked, shredded beef stewed in a tomato-based sauce. I expected the sauce to be similar to an enchilada sauce, but it was more like a delicious, savory gravy, laced with cumin and oregano. 

My side dishes included a fresh green salad with big fat slices of avocado and fried sweet plantains. Historically, I don’t love plantains because I crave more texture with my food, so I saved that stomach real estate for extra bites of ropa vieja and dessert260415Vick. 

One of my dining companions that evening was my fabulous Filipino friend, who was excited to try the flan ($5) after telling us about the incredible flan her mother used to make. We ordered La Mulata’s version to share, and while the self-proclaimed “flan snob” said the texture was different from what she was used to, I found it to be exceptional. I don’t have a lot of experience with flan, but this was the perfect marriage of custard and cheesecake. 

As we finished eating, the owner came out to introduce herself and ask how we liked the food. We declared ourselves fans for life and promised to return. 

He Ate

A standout of south Lansing’s growing culinary scene, La Mulata offers more than just a meal; it delivers a vibrant cultural experience rooted in authenticity, family and community. Warm lighting, colorful décor and the rhythmic pulse of Cuban music create an atmosphere that feels both transportive and welcoming. It’s the kind of place where dinner easily turns into an evening — where guests linger, sip and eventually find themselves moving to the music.

The menu is a celebration of traditional Cuban cuisine, executed with care and pride. Each plate feels intentional, as though it carries a story from kitchen to table. The drink menu complements the food beautifully, featuring refreshing cocktails that add to the restaurant’s lively, island-inspired spirit.

As a family-run establishment, there is a palpable sense of pride woven into every aspect of the experience. Service feels personal rather than transactional, and there’s an authenticity that can’t be manufactured, coming from people who are deeply connected to both their heritage and their craft.

On any given night, you’ll find a diverse crowd — newcomers and regulars alike — sharing food, drinks and conversation. I even ran into my co-author, Mrs. She Ate, and her dinner companions (and they graciously shared their flan). As the evening progresses, the space transforms into something even more dynamic, with music and dancing bringing people together in a way that feels organic and joyful.

In a city where community matters, La Mulata stands out as a place that nourishes more than appetite. It feeds connection and culture, making it one of Lansing’s most distinctive and memorable dining experiences.

¡Qué es bueno!

I’ve enjoyed many a Cuban sandwich in my life. The combination of soft bread, slow-roasted pork, ham, pickles and mustard just works for me. La Mulata’s Cuban sandwich ($17) was reminiscent of those I’ve had before, but elevated. The ham slice on this massive handheld was thick-cut and honey-baked. The shredded pork was very garlic-and-onion-forward but wasn’t overpowering. I only wish they had filtered more of the fat out of the meat after shredding it. 

The side of fries was also quite good. Thick-cut and fried to a bronze color, the seasoning that was lightly dusted on top provided a hint of smokiness.

¡Más delicioso! 

Last October, I was fortunate enough to visit Costa Rica on a work trip and fell deeper in love with the combination of black beans, rice and maduros (fried plantains). This combo is served standard with breakfast, lunch or dinner and is paired with a variety of meats. La Mulata’s version of rice and beans is called congris, flavored with lots of onions, green peppers, garlic and cumin. I enjoyed my congris and maduros in tandem with the vaca frita ($19.99), shredded beef pan-fried with sliced onions and garlic. 

Another delicious item was the croquettes ($7). These deep-fried minced potatoes were filled with ham, crunchy on the outside and pillowy on the inside. Taking the yumminess to another level was the side of creamy garlic sauce, which rivaled some of the best versions I’ve had at Mediterranean restaurants in the area. Make sure you have some mints or gum in the car, because it is powerful.

¡Mejor bocado!

Since La Mulata opened in 2025, I’ve heard many folks, both in person and on social media, rave about the ropa vieja (slow-roasted beef with peppers). I decided to try it in the Cuban burrito ($15) and was happy I did. Another massive handheld, this tortilla was filled with congris, chopped maduros and chimichurri sauce. The meat was tender and danced both the mambo and the rumba with the other ingredients. These flavors took me back to bites I had during my time in Central America. Check out La Mulata and find out where it transports you.