RJ’s does burgers and ice cream right

By GABRIELLE LAWRENCE

When I was growing up, there was a place called the Country Parlour on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard that served ice cream sundaes. My siblings and I were only successful in convincing my parents to take us there a few times a year, and it has now gone the way of the Royal Fork and the novelty gift shop in downtown Lansing called Ma-Ah’s, all lost to the ages. 

Every summer, when the entire Lawrence family comes down with ice cream fever, I try to think of an appropriate substitute location — somewhere we can sit down and enjoy our ice cream and maybe even get an order of fries to make it a complete meal. Until RJ’s came into my consciousness recently, nowhere fit the bill. 

My family visited RJ’s for a Friday night dinner recently, and we were immediately besotted with the décor. They go hard on the whimsical ice-cream-parlor theme, with oversized pink light fixtures, an ice cream bench and lots of decorations. The proprietor told us that they frequently host events, and I believe it. The setting is perfect for a birthday party or girls’ night out. 

We placed our order at the counter and claimed a table to wait for the food. I didn’t know what to expect and was pleasantly surprised that the food was all made to order. My family relaxed and admired the pictures hanging on the wall, including one of the family behind RJ’s with my oldest friend, CJ Quinney. There are also photos of Lansing and Michigan State University notables like Magic Johnson and Steve Smith, and I love a personal, local touch like that. 

Mr. She Ate inhaled his chicken hoagie ($13.25), remarking that the flavor was excellent and the bread was soft but still hearty enough to stand up to the filling. I had a smash burger ($9.49), which was textured around the edges, the way that I like it. 

RJ’s offers several different seasonings for its fries ($3.49/small). I tried the garlic parmesan. The fries were crispy and salty, and the seasoning added an interesting dimension without being overwhelming. I also learned on that day that adding seasoning to my fries is an excellent way to prevent my children from eating all of them. 

We promised ice cream, and I’m a mom of my word. We each had a scoop ($5) of our preferred flavor and have since named RJ’s our go-to local spot for our favorite summer treat. There’s a divide in our family: I like hand-dipped ice cream, while Mr. She Ate prefers the mediocre sludge that is soft serve. I’m happy to report that RJ’s doesn’t offer the latter. 

On a return visit, at the recommendation of a friend, I tried the turkey burger ($10.25). This was my favorite item that I tried across all my visits to RJ’s. I always find turkey burgers much juicier and more satisfying than beef burgers, and this was no exception. It’s rare that a turkey burger is offered on a menu, and I’m curious about the genesis of this relatively unique offering. I also hope that it’s popular enough to remain on the menu for the foreseeable future. 

HE ATE

By BRYAN BEVERLY

There’s something about RJ’s Burgers and Ice Cream Co. in East Lansing that makes you want to linger a little longer. 

This place is bright, bold and decidedly not boring. It’s the kind of environment that invites you to put down your phone, settle in with friends and enjoy the simple pleasures of burgers and ice cream. In a college town where students have plenty of places to eat, that uniqueness matters.

And then there’s co-owner Robert Wilkie, who brings a warm, engaging personality to the operation. He understands that building a restaurant is about more than what comes out of the kitchen. It’s about making people feel welcome and giving them a reason to return. 

Of course, personality can only take an eatery so far. The long-term success of RJ’s will depend on its ability to pair its inviting atmosphere and enthusiastic hospitality with food and service that keep people coming back. But the ingredients for a memorable local spot are there: a distinctive look, an approachable vibe and a proprietor who recognizes the value of making a personal connection.

What’s good

The fries ($4.49/large) at RJ’s are a hot and crispy treat to complement your burger or ice cream — whatever your pleasure. The skin-on potatoes, cut “carnival-style” and served in paper cups, reminded me of Riverfest or Boblo Island. You can kick the flavor up several notches with various seasoning options for 50 cents extra. I chose salt and vinegar the first time and dill pickle the next. Both were pungent in all the right ways, and I look forward to trying the Cajun and garlic parmesan seasonings on future visits.

What’s really good

On my first visit, I tried the double smash burger ($9.49), which was very solid. Customers can choose from four different cheeses, seven different toppings and six different sauces. I went with the A1 steak sauce, mayo, cheddar cheese and pickles. While the smashing of the patties made the handheld smaller than I would have liked, the amount of flavor packed into each bite was extremely impressive. 

My second trip was even better. I got the double-double turkey burger with bacon ($14.50). This time around, I added grilled onions, pepper jack cheese and the house Moo Moo sauce. The turkey patties stood taller after being smashed than the beef, and the tangy sauce paired extremely well with the grilled onions. 

Best bite

The ice cream, obviously. One scoop ($5) is plenty for me these days, but it was truly enjoyable. The butter pecan was decadent but not so rich that I wasn’t able to finish. The pecans added a salty, earthy contrast to the creamy treat. If butter pecan isn’t your speed, there are 26 other flavors to try, ensuring something for everyone.