She Ate/He Ate: The ATS carries on the legacy of the Airport Tavern

She Ate

By GABRIELLE LAWRENCE

20 years ago, before I met Mr. She Ate, I was deep in my heyday of young-professional living: disposable income, no youth sports on the weekends and eating happy-hour appetizers without fear of midnight indigestion. My friends and I would occasionally venture north of downtown to the Airport Tavern, where we always encountered a mix of professionals, blue-collar workers and retirees, many of whom had come for the famous Sizzler steak. 

Well, the times, they have a-changed. My life is 180 degrees different, and the Airport Tavern is under new ownership and even goes by a new name: The ATS of Lansing. I hadn’t stepped foot inside for a few decades before recently, when I brought my two young kids with me for a Friday lunch. 

My son, who is 8 years old, is developing some kind of understanding of what we do with this column and asked me if he could give me a “report” on the boys’ bathroom. The lock was higher than was comfortable for him (because he is an actual child), but he loved all the airplane artwork throughout the restaurant, and the lemonade wasn’t too sour. 

Both children were famished, and we ordered the Bavarian pretzel ($12) to start, but our server forgot to put it in. Fortunately, our order arrived very quickly. My son attacked his fries and chicken, while his sister cleared her entire plate of fries before taking a single bite of her pasta with red sauce. 

My steak salad ($17) was excellent. Crisp, chopped romaine was topped with halved cherry tomatoes, blue cheese crumbles, croutons and sliced steak that was a perfectly cooked medium. I love a hearty salad, especially on hot summer days, and this steak made me remember why generations of people have flocked to the restaurant. 

My son ate his entire kids’ meal and then asked for another, which has never happened before. The first week of summer vacation had him bouncing from golf camp to soccer tryouts to baseball games. I would have been catatonic if I’d had that much activity in five days. 

The entire family returned for a Sunday brunch. We love to go out for brunch on the weekends, but it’s sometimes challenging to find a restaurant that offers something my children will eat as well as something that doesn’t make me feel like I’m restricted to kid-friendly food. 

Well, we found it. The kids both had the chicken and waffles ($14), and, ladies and gentlemen, they both ate it. The waffles were sweeter than I expected, but that’s what worked so well with the crispy, savory fried chicken. 

After questioning the server quite a bit due to the intriguing menu description, I chose the egg-and-avocado croquettes ($12), which were unique and delicious. Avocado is mashed and cooked into an egg patty, which is then topped with ham or turkey (I did one of each), a fat slice of tomato, shredded lettuce and chipotle-lime sour cream. They were savory and unexpected in a delightful way. 

Mr. She Ate split the croquettes with me and also polished off a Greek yogurt parfait ($8), which would have been better with fresh fruit, not fruit in syrup. Nonetheless, the Lawrence Four were happy, fed and caffeinated (the adults, at least) and will plan to return before another 20 years slips away. 

The ATS of Lansing’s blackened salmon sandwich is undeniably first-class, in Bryan Beverly’s opinion. Photo by Bryan Beverly. Opinion not exclusive to Bryan Beverly.

He Ate

By BRYAN BEVERLY

The ATS of Lansing is the kind of place where food lovers will find themselves on a nourishing flight path. Formerly known as Airport Tavern & Steakhouse, this longtime Lansing institution recently completed a “takeoff” under new ownership while preserving much of the character and loyal following that made it a local landmark for decades. I grew up near the airport and have fond memories of meals with my dad at the former steakhouse. 

Walking into The ATS feels like arriving at a familiar terminal that has undergone a first-class renovation. New owner Marcus Powers has updated the menu, and the renewed attention to quality suggests the restaurant is steadily climbing toward cruising altitude. 

The food is a smooth ride from start to finish. The expanded menu offers plenty of options for every passenger on the culinary journey. Whether you’re clearing the runway with an appetizer, settling in for a hearty steak dinner or grabbing a burger and a drink at the bar, the kitchen staff demonstrates the consistency and confidence of an experienced flight crew. Longtime patrons will appreciate that The ATS has retained many of the qualities that made Airport Tavern a Lansing favorite. 

The service deserves special recognition. The staff creates an experience that feels less like a transaction and more like being welcomed aboard by a small but mighty flight crew that genuinely enjoys what they do. Friendly hospitality, attentive service and a comfortable atmosphere help make every visit feel like a direct flight rather than an annoying layover. 

On-time arrivals

Longtime fans of the Airport Tavern will be happy to know that steaks remain a top priority at The ATS. I stopped in solo mid-week and chose my dad’s longtime favorite, The Sizzler, now called The Tavern ($19). This 8-ounce steak was succulent, tender and cooked to a perfect medium rare. I appreciated the familiar presentation, a nod to tradition, but the flavor surpassed my expectations, especially with the rich, seasoned butter melted over the top of the steak. Paired with a baked potato and toast, this meal is a timeless classic that continues to deliver.

Round trip worthy

The olive burger ($16) is a new contender for Top of the Town. A thick and juicy burger on a toasted bun was layered with half slices of olives and mayo, making for a mile-high mess in all the right ways. I paired the burger with onion rings, which were thick cut with a heavy batter. They could have benefited from an accompanying dipping sauce, but ketchup is always in my carry-on bag. 

Another hit was the shareable truffle chips ($9). Thin-sliced potatoes were fried, tossed in truffle oil, and topped with parmesan and green onion. These were dangerously good — I would suggest getting more than one order, or run the risk of an unhappy co-pilot after you’ve eaten more than your share. 

Best bite

When I say I can’t wait to order the blackened salmon sandwich ($16) again, I truly mean it. Cooked to perfection, the fish had a flavorful, expertly seared exterior, and the fresh, vibrant coleslaw provided both a satisfying crunch and a bright, tangy contrast. This handheld is a lighter, healthier alternative to heavier options like burgers or pulled pork, yet the flavor profile was rich, balanced and undeniably first-class.