The tofu is top-notch at Sunrise Asian Restaurant

Photo: Lizy Ferguson for City Pulse

I grew up in Lansing and therefore have many fond memories of Apple Jade in Frandor, such as eating too many crab rangoons as a stoned teenager and a boy telling me he didn’t want to be exclusive over a table for two covered with no fewer than four dishes. 

Naturally, I was sad when I went to place a takeout order one day and found that the restaurant had closed permanently.

The presence of a business-zoned vacancy always inspires both hope for something good and fear of disappointment, so I was pleased to see another restaurant with many of the same offerings as Apple Jade move in. 

Apart from Chinese restaurant staples, Sunrise Asian Restaurant also offers sushi, Japanese noodle dishes, pad Thai and bubble tea. What caught my eye, though, were the tofu-based takes on classic Chinese American chicken dishes, such as General Tso’s and Szechuan.

Despite being a meat eater, I really enjoy the taste of tofu, as well as its comparative

lightness.

I tried the sesame tofu, as well as the Singapore mei fun.

The tofu was fried just right, slightly crispy on the edges but still tender on the inside. The tasty soy, garlic and honey sauce had just a hint of vinegar and wasn’t drowning the tofu or the pieces

of perfectly steamed broccoli. Together with the slightly spicy Singapore mei fun — thin rice noodles tossed with shrimp, barbecue pork, carrots and scallions and seasoned with curry and turmeric, giving it a golden hue — the dishes were a lovely array of colors, textures and flavors.

Frandor is an ever-changing, ever-evolving ecosystem, so we must always be prepared to see a favorite go.

Apple Jade will remain in our hearts, but Sunrise is worthy of carrying on its legacy. I’m ordering a lot of takeout these days, so I may never have any formative experiences in its dining room, but it’s still a good option when I’m craving a lighter take on sesame chicken.