Naing Myanmar proves itself as a hidden gem

By GABRIELLE  LAWRENCE

Until writing this review, I don’t believe I’d ever experienced the word “semiquincentennial.” For those of us who don’t want to spend five minutes trying to parse through what that word means, I’ll get to the point: The United States is about to celebrate its 250th birthday.

I anticipate a lot of displays of rabid patriotism this summer, and for someone who is bitterly disappointed in almost everything happening at the federal level of our government, I plan to wear black and run my mouth about it.

One of the most infuriating effects of the Trump era has been the attack on immigrants. People who have come to our country for a better, or different, life. People who work and contribute. Our friends, neighbors, colleagues. Human beings.

Lansing has long been a magnet for immigrants and refugees, and I know that I speak for most of us when I say that we like it that way. I want pho. I want shawarma. I want my kids to go to school with kids who speak different languages at home and bring different foods in their lunchboxes. And I have the utmost respect for people who risk everything they know to come here and plant roots in our community.

Moe Naing Israel and Mi Latt Thanda, the owners of Naing Myanmar Family Restaurant, have done just that. They’ve taken a seemingly forgotten plaza in south Lansing and turned it into a flagship restaurant that has a cult following. Last year, they closed for construction, debuting a completely rebuilt restaurant and a separate grocery store upon reopening. Every time I go inside, the tables are full of diners, and every time I type the restaurant’s name into Google or Lansing Foodies, I read review after review from satisfied customers.

It had been a while since Mr. She Ate and had eaten lunch at Naing Myanmar, and we were happy to oblige. We started with the spring rolls ($6.99), which were crisp and flavorful. I moved on to the Thai larb salad ($12.49), one of my perennial favorites due to the unexpected (but so welcome) inclusion of fresh mint. Larb is made with ground meat (I chose chicken) and sticks to your ribs but still tastes fresh thanks to the mint, cilantro and spring onion.

Mr. She Ate chose the garlic chicken ($15.99), a personal favorite as well. The dishes come out piping hot as soon as they’re ready, so this isn’t the place to stand on ceremony and wait for everyone at your table to be served before digging in.

During a group lunch/gossip session, I had the fried cellophane noodles with chicken ($14.99). I was pleasantly surprised by the oversized slices of mushroom, and I immediately got too big for my britches when I spooned on some chili sauce. It was served on the side for a reason.

After I exhausted the fire on my lips, I turned toward the samosas on our table, which were less spicy and provided a welcome break. They were crisp and tasty, but the star was the tamarind-and-plum sauce, a delicious cross between citrusy and sweet.

By BRYAN  BEVERLY

Long praised by Lansing-area diners, Naing Myanmar Family Restaurant has quietly built a reputation as one of the city’s hidden culinary gems. After my first visit, it became clear that the acclaim is well deserved.

The modest exterior might not prepare first-time visitors for what awaits inside. But stepping through the doors reveals a surprisingly warm and inviting interior that feels intimate and deeply personal. The service isn’t fast, but this creates an atmosphere where guests feel encouraged to slow down, explore the menu (especially the version with photos) and enjoy the experience together. Takeout can take about an hour on busy evenings, and a lunch visit with three good friends was well over an hour.

The food is what truly sets the restaurant apart. Aromatic curries, complex and flavorful noodle dishes and expertly balanced spices showcase the depth and complexity of Burmese cuisine, as well as that of neighboring Southeast Asian countries.

In a city filled with underrated culinary spots, Naing Myanmar stands among the very best: unassuming on the outside, unforgettable once you walk in.

What’s mild

One of the most recommended dishes at Naing Myanmar is the tea-pickled leaves with beans salad ($10.99). Local foodies rave about it. My much better half loved the combination of yellow beans, green peas, cabbage, tomato and fried garlic. The pickle flavor wasn’t so overpowering as to overshadow the other elements, instead allowing them to flourish cohesively.

The crab rangoon ($7.99) were similar to those found at most Asian restaurants, but the fried shrimp ($8.99) were unique. Flat discs of chopped shrimp battered with rice flour, this appetizer was both crunchy and tender.

The samosas ($8.99) were stuffed with potato, curry leaves, green beans, carrot and onion. The rough chop on the veggies provided texture, and the plum sauce provided some much-needed flavor, as the samosas was rather bland without it.

What turns up the heat

I really enjoyed the Burmese fried rice with garden peas, onion, egg, basil and chicken ($14.99). The flavor was deep and unctuous, and while the chicken itself wasn’t super spicy, the heat came from the chili crisp that accompanied the dish. Most fried rice dishes contain too much sesame oil for my palate, but this version was far lighter, allowing the other ingredients to shine.

The massaman curry with chicken ($14.99) had real heat — the kind that sits with you after you’re done eating but doesn’t keep you from finishing. The yellow curry paired well with the carrots, potatoes, peanuts, cashews and onion it coated. Red pepper flakes were abundant, and while the coconut milk base attempted to temper the heat, the slow burn got to me eventually.

Best bite

Another fan-favorite dish is the garlic chicken with white rice ($15.99), which is quite good. Yet the same dish with shrimp and fried rice ($17.99) is even better. Sautéed shrimp are covered in a delicious brown sauce and topped with fried garlic, served over lightly fried rice. The dish is accompanied by a chili-vinegar sauce, but tread lightly if you’re spice adverse, because this can turn your meal into a rather unpleasant experience with just a few too many drops. Get the spice level right, and this truly is one of Lansing’s signature dishes.