A taste of Greece in downtown Williamston

By GABRIELLE LAWRENCE

There’s been a recent social-media-fueled push to let your kids have a ‘90s summer. My interpretation of this is allowing them minimal screen time (other than family movie night), giving them frequent reminders that being bored builds character, forcing them to go outside and find someone to play with and letting them roam the neighborhood (within reason, of course) without constantly monitoring their whereabouts. 

My ‘90s summers included riding my bike to get ice cream at Frosty Korner, scampering across the street when the Bookmobile pulled up and late-night games of capture the flag with a gaggle of other kids. Who knew that we were living in halcyon days. 

The She Ate family recently returned home from vacation, and the next day, our son told us that he wanted to go to the family cottage Up North to join his cousins in the lead-up to the Fourth of July. Away he went. Our daughter, long obsessed with my lifesaver of a mother-in-law who lives around the corner, peeled off for a sleepover at Gramster’s. 

These ‘90s summer activities left me and Mr. She Ate enjoying the most fleeting of sweet summer moments: a child-free 36 hours. We headed out to dinner immediately after spending a glorious hour at Williams-Sonoma selecting one single new chef’s knife. 

Niko’s Taverna is a far cry from what it was when I first visited years ago. It’s much more casual than fine dining, a choice I believe is well suited to the style of food. We started with the tirokroketes ($13.99), which could be described as a Greek version of mozzarella sticks. I added a hefty dash of salt, but otherwise, this was a tasty and unique appetizer. 

I moved on to the Greek chicken pita ($13.99), which was large and filling. It was rolled up tightly in foil, which I appreciated for ease of eating, but it also meant that the tzatziki stayed dolloped in the center, leading to several very dry bites before I made my way further into the wrap. 

For my side, I chose the intriguing noodles with brown butter and Parmesan, which turned out to be the best part of the entire meal. I’ve found that many restaurants boast brown butter in a dish, but it’s rare that the nutty, caramelly flavor is given the opportunity to shine. The brown butter came first in this dish, with the noodles along for the ride. 

Mr. She Ate had the gyro ($13.99), which was flavorful but a bit dry. He chose the Greek potatoes as his accompaniment, and we noted that the menu includes many items that seem to be rebranded as Greek simply due to the addition of feta and oregano. 

We moved on to dessert, because we had all the time in the world. He had a root beer float ($5.99), which was unremarkable but also inoffensive, and I had the flourless chocolate cake ($5.99). I was expecting a warm, circular chocolate bomb with a molten center. Instead, it was a flourless brownie, served cold. Don’t get me wrong, we still ate it, but the menu description was misleading for my part. 

To be forthright, my last experience at Niko’s several years ago left such a bitter taste in my mouth that I had refused to return until now. I’m happy I did. The food is satisfying, flavorful and reasonably priced. The vibe is casual and welcoming. There’s a sizeable and varied kids’ menu, as well as an adorable movie theater across the street. Sounds like we’re adding an evening in Williamston to this ‘90s summer. 

Cherry bomb shrimp, which earned Bryan Beverly’s “best bite” nod this month.
Credit: Bryan Beverly for City Pulse

By BRYAN BEVERLY

Situated along the town’s charming main street, Niko’s Taverna fits perfectly into the character of Williamston. Whether you choose a table inside or opt for the inviting patio on a beautiful evening or sunny afternoon, the restaurant’s atmosphere encourages you to slow down, enjoy your company and savor the experience. 

As I looked over the menu, I couldn’t help but think about the stories my mother shared after visiting Greece eight years ago. More recently, my daughter returned from a school trip to Greece in April with many of the same observations — the fresh ingredients, the simple yet bold flavors, the way meals become an opportunity to connect with others. Sitting at Niko’s, I finally understood what they had been describing. While no restaurant can replace the experience of dining in Greece itself, the flavors, aromas and hospitality certainly capture the spirit.

The most impressive aspect wasn’t the food, but the service. During my visit, a single server was also tending the bar, yet you would have never guessed it. Every table received attentive, friendly service. Managing both responsibilities with such professionalism and warmth is no small feat, and it elevated the entire dining experience.

My Friday afternoon visit also offered a reminder that restaurants are about more than what’s on the plate. At the table next to mine, a woman was celebrating her birthday. As the staff acknowledged the occasion, smiles spread across the dining room, and strangers became part of someone else’s special memory. It was a simple gesture that reflected the welcoming community atmosphere Niko’s has cultivated.

Between its picturesque Grand River-adjacent location, inviting patio, authentic Greek-inspired cuisine, attentive service and genuine hospitality, Niko’s offers the kind of experience that keeps people coming back, serving as a reminder that the best dining experiences are built around food, family and community.

What’s good

Opa! is the traditional salutation that accompanies the lighting of the pan-fried kasseri cheese called saganaki ($12.99). Served sizzling in a small cast-iron pan and doused with fresh lemon to quench the flames, this is a staple dish at many Greek restaurants and a personal favorite of mine. Niko’s version is accompanied by warm pita bread for dipping.

The lamb meatball appetizer ($12.99) is decent, if not a bit gamier than expected. The flavors are still on point, with the fresh feta providing a layer of creaminess. The Greek tomato sauce dip includes notes of cinnamon, clove and allspice. 

What’s really good

The souvlaki sliders ($14.99) are incredible. Tender cuts of marinated, grilled pork rest on a baguette topped with spicy feta spread and red onion. The zesty tzatziki sauce brings all the flavors together. The sandwich is cut into small portions meant to be shared, but it could definitely make someone happy as a standalone. 

The chicken ($22.99) entrée is stellar. Marinated to perfection and then dry rubbed with herbs, the meat is tender and juicy, and the side of Greek potatoes is also wonderful. Topped with a generous portion of feta cheese and Greek seasonings, prepare for another punch of flavor. 

Best bite

I will get three orders of the Cherry Bomb shrimp ($12.99) next time I go to Niko’s Taverna: one for the table and two to take home. First, the shrimp are large and plentiful, a rarity in such a dish. Second, the lobster bisque-esque broth, enriched with sherry and Cajun seasonings, could be served solo as a soup. You’ll run out of baguette to dip long before you grow tired of the flavors. Simply outstanding.