He ate: Crab-Stuffed Salmon

Overall, the food scene in Lansing is burgeoning, with fantastic finds in an array of genres and flavors. One can also find a good meal for a relatively reasonable price across the tri-counties. Yet, the upper end of the spectrum often leaves patrons wanting more.  

I struggle even to count the number of restaurants in the area that could qualify as fine dining. That’s not to say there aren’t fine options because there are plenty not draped in traditional fine dining pageantry. Most of Lansing’s finer options are styled as grills, steakhouses and taverns with exciting menus, comfort food and specialty cocktails.  

Such is the case with Stillwater Grill, an institution at the corner of Jolly and Okemos Road for several decades and has served as a flashpoint for much of the surrounding developments. Stillwater Grill has strong roots in New American cuisine and décor. Like its sister location in Brighton, the ambiance is part intimate dining, part watering hole, thanks to its massive bar anchoring the space.  

The Stillwater team was welcoming and accommodating, but I wondered if the staffing challenges hitting so many local businesses prevents it from being open for lunch, as I’d unsuccessfully attempted on a previous visit.  

What’s parched 

I enjoy seafood. I dine on some variation at least twice per week. When I find a seafood dish I like, I often return for it. Stillwater Grill does a nice job with the presentation, and the first dish looked the part. Sadly, the Crab-Stuffed Salmon ($31.95) missed the mark. The fish itself was far drier than I expected from a stuffed dish. It barely flaked when it encountered my fork, and the roasted pepper, spinach and crab stuffing was nothing I’d qualify as shellfish or even an imitation. The loaded baked potato with cheese, chives and bacon offered a welcome distraction, along with the nicely steamed broccolini. However, even more disappointing than the fish itself was the lemon caper beurre blanc sauce. It was overly sour, and I wondered if it was fresh. At this price point, I expected more.  

What’s saucy 

I enjoy Brussels sprouts ($10.95), and the flash-fried version here is a strong entry. Shaved parmesan, pecans and a maple-balsamic glaze all worked in tandem. The Point Judith Calamari ($14.95) was also excellent, with a fantastic saffron aioli that’s light and flavor-packed. My kiddos enjoyed the Chicken Tenderloin Platter ($17.95), and I’m here to testify that the more-honey-than-mustard dipping sauce was among the best I’ve had. My much better half relished the Lobster Bisque (Bowl, $10.45), commenting on the subtle sherry flavor and chunks of seafood. I found it thicker than I anticipated and lacking a pinch of salt. Overall, it was respectable.  

Best bites 

While it was hard not to list some of the dipping sauces here, the tried-and-true Cajun Beef Tenderloin Tips did not disappoint. Cooked to a perfect medium rare with a great seared crust on the outside, the tips are bathed in a flavorful Cajun butter that is not overpowering. I enjoyed them as part of a Create Your Own combination ($29.95) with a tasty shrimp skewer. Further, the accompanying truffle steak fries that amounted to a whole russet potato were wonderful, with a generous double dose of parmesan cheese on the fries at the bottom of the heap. The side Stillwater salad was also a pleasant surprise with their Dijon vinaigrette, dried cherries and blue cheese crumbles. Stillwater Grill continues to be a strong culinary option in the area.