Don’t sleep on Sleepwalker’s brunch

What differentiates breakfast from brunch? The time of day or day of week? The presence of cocktails? Sure, those are factors, but for me, the brunch mindset can only be attained when the menu ventures beyond the standard breakfast fare. Much like its delicious pizzas, which include options with refried black beans (the El Chupacabra) and spinach dip (the Artichoke Me Out) as a base, Sleepwalker Spirits and Ale’s Sunday brunch offerings deviate from the norm in ways that make the meal feel like an occasion. The cozy, well-curated, wood-paneled atmosphere doesn’t hurt, either.

I started with a bloody Mary, but you can choose anything from Sleepwalker’s beer and cocktail menu. The brunch menu includes items such as bread pudding French toast and a breakfast sandwich with fresh mozzarella and pesto. It appears to vary slightly over time, with new offerings occasionally making appearances. I chose the johnny cakes, which I knew I wanted the moment I saw them. The moment they hit the table, I knew I’d chosen correctly. This was one of the most nicely presented plates of food I’ve seen in a while.

A johnny cake is a cornmeal pancake that can be both sweet and savory. Sleepwalker layered its version with gooey Chihuahua cheese, sautéed peppers and chorizo. It was a mountain of food, with crispy bits of fried cheese circling the bottom layer and a perfectly cooked fried egg on top. The cakes were golden brown and fluffy, with the signature grit of cornmeal adding texture. They were especially delicious when soaked through with runny egg yolk. Served alongside were some of the best breakfast potatoes I’ve had, well-seasoned and crispy and plentiful.

Speaking of plentiful, I could only finish half of my plate because the portion was so generous. And all for only $12. When my friend and I got the bill, I couldn’t remember one of our meal dates having such a small price tag. Alongside the more adventurous choices, the Sleepwalker brunch menu also includes classics like biscuits and gravy and the tried-and-true combo of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast. Given the quality, quantity and price of my brunch, I’ll definitely be going back for breakfast.