Open your eyes (and mouth) to Grains Indian Cuisine

Taking a bite of a menu item from Grains Indian Cuisine doesn’t just excite taste buds. It also raises eyebrows. Since its opening a couple of months ago, the new eatery, which took over the former Flap Jack Restaurant on South Waverly Road, has been serving food delicious enough to elicit wide-eyed reactions. 

The vegetable pakora appetizer, for example, surprises with its extra-crunchy and flavorful shell. Biting into the tasty crispiness is a delight, as is the contrast of the soft, warm and tangy inner filling. Each bite is a multifaceted and delicious explosion.

The deep-fried coating is made with a seasoned lentil batter. The spiced vegetables inside are blended into a multicolored mash that seems to have infinite flavors. These are probably the best pakoras I’ve tasted.

The hara bhara kebab appetizer is similarly impressive. The potato-and-spinach patties are the antithesis of bland. The spicy amalgamation is lightly fried and then drizzled with a peppery condiment. Grains’ kebabs are solid and satisfying.

Appetizers are served with two traditional sauces. The green sauce is tangier, and the dark tamarind sauce is sweet and sour. Both are yummy and complementary dips.

The aloo gobi entrée combines tender potatoes and cauliflower florets that are sautéed with tomatoes and onion slivers. Garlic and ginger are added in just the right amounts to not be overpowering. The sauce is thick and not a touch soupy.

All the items served at Grains are fresh and clearly homemade. The distinctive Indian dishes have an authentic taste and include leafy bits (such as cilantro) that seem to have just been picked. Diners can choose between five spice levels, from mild (which still has a bit of a kick) to “Indian hot.” I always order a side of the yogurt-based raita as a cooling condiment; of course, it’s refreshingly delicious.

Entrées are served with a choice of soup or salad, basmati rice and naan. The rice is fluffy and comes in a generous-sized bowl. The naan is warm and soft yet has just the right amount of chewiness.

Grains also offers lamb, chicken, goat and seafood dishes, as well as several dessert options. It has a full bar and a variety of lassi drinks, a cold, yogurt-based Indian favorite. To-go and takeout options are available, but that means skipping the pleasant waitstaff, who provide excellent service.