Advances in nacho technology

The selection of eateries at Lansing Shuffle is looking a little sparse these days, but what remains is solid: Taquitos AF (Mexican-style street food), Lalafish (sushi, bowls), Kin Thai (Southeast Asian street food) and Browndog (burgers, ice cream). The patio overlooking the river makes the food hall a great spot for Friday evening drinks and eats as the weather warms up, and you don’t have to worry as much as with other restaurants about there being something to meet everyone’s end-of-week, “I deserve a treat” cravings.

If I had to pick my favorite appetizers, crab Rangoon and nachos would easily make the top five. I’ve heard about the crab Rangoon nachos at Kin Thai many times, but I’ve never been able to bring myself to order them as a meal, having been raised to always have at least one vegetable on my plate. However, I’m occasionally blessed to attend group dinners with generous friends who are always willing to share.

I made short work of my own relatively sensible meal, but when the nachos arrived at the table, I was glad I’d come from the gym and had plenty more room. A tower of crispy, golden wontons was topped with light-as-air ribbons of imitation crab, melty cream cheese, scallions and Thai sweet chili sauce. A nacho devotee, I wholeheartedly sign off on this version. The warm cream cheese was the consistency of queso, and the light, almost fluffy imitation crab and fresh scallions added a wonderful brightness to the otherwise heavy dish.

Everything was present for maximum satisfaction and dopamine production: crispy, creamy, sweet, savory, cheesy and tangy. It was the kind of dish that required self-control not to overindulge and ruin a good thing. Would I recommend it as a main course? No. But I don’t think you should visit Lansing Shuffle without getting an order for the table.