He Ate

By BRYAN BEVERLY

Being native to Lansing’s west side, venturing out to the Meridian Mall as a kid was both rare and a treat. Just down Marsh Road from the mall is Central Park Place, a collection of fairly upscale storefronts. I recall several fond memories of visiting Seasons in the shopping plaza to explore its late-1980s-era furniture, trendy novelties and my favorite: the wall of jellybeans. I have less fond memories of waiting for my mom as she shopped at Chico’s for what seemed like days at a time, but we would hit up Cappuccino Cafe for a pumpkin bar or brownie as a reward for my patience.

Chico’s remains at the plaza, but many other businesses have been replaced over the years. One of the more popular tenants today is Bread Bites Mediterranean, which prides itself on its dough, bread and pies. This family-owned restaurant offers typical Mediterranean fare but also highlights several authentic dishes from the owners’ native Palestine and Lebanon.

During both of my visits, I saw lots of takeout and delivery orders, yet plenty of diners also filled tables for lunch. No matter how you plan to enjoy your meal, you will be greeted by Nadar, a maestro of kindness and belonging. Honestly, he should spend time training other restaurants’ waitstaff in customer service or giving pep talks to reception desk staff at many businesses around town.

What’s good

Bread Bites’ hummus ($6.25) is pungent. It caught my better half and me off guard with its burst of citrus. It’s creamy and smooth but just thick enough that you can tell it’s authentic and fresh. Our palates are probably too used to Westernized versions of hummus.

The Meat over Hashwe plate ($15.50) is up and down. The hashwe — rice seasoned with ground beef, cinnamon, and other spices — shines with its warm earthiness, helping to overshadow the sumac-and-onion-marinated chicken musakhan, which is flavorful but overcooked in far too many pieces.

What’s great

There are so many other great dishes at Bread Bites that it’s hard to put them into categories this month. The french fries ($3), with their house-made Lebanese seasoned salt, are probably better than any other fries you’ve had in 2024. Similarly, the lemon chicken soup ($6.50) is packed with carrots, celery, rice and chicken, with a most vibrant broth. Herbaceous and hearty, this soup would be perfect for a rainy April afternoon.

I’ve had kibbie — ground beef combined with bulgur wheat, pine nuts and spices — on multiple special occasions where friends have made it fresh. Whether raw or baked, I’m a fan. Bread Bites’ deep-fried Kibbie Bites ($3 each) compete with any I’ve ever had. Crispy with notes of cinnamon and allspice, this kibbie is bound to be on my tray whenever I return.

The dessert options are plentiful and appealing, with baklava cheesecake ($7.99) and lady fingers ($2.25 each) among the choices. We sampled the rice pudding ($4.25), which is creamy and light in texture, with firm rice that’s neither crunchy nor soggy. Sometimes with rice pudding, the cinnamon is an afterthought that’s just sprinkled on top, but in Bread Bites’ version, the aromatic yumminess is embedded throughout. Add in a hint of rose water, and the flavor is through the roof. The traditional baklava ($2.50), with its paper-thin layers of phyllo and generous toppings of pistachios and honey, is a wholesome, sweet treat that provides a lovely accompaniment to the rice pudding.

Best bite

As amazing as all the flavors described above are, the best bite this month goes to the restaurant’s various breads. In every form, the doughy delectable is the star of the show. From the warm and fluffy pita ($5.25 per bag) to the zesty and savory Thyme Bites ($2 each), this isn’t the place to count calories, but goodness gracious, are they tasty! My waistline is glad I still live far enough away on the west side.