That New Place will become an old favorite

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Any breakfast spot where I can get a fancy coffee drink with my meal is top-tier in my book. When I’m finally done making food for other people all week, I want to wake up on my day off and have everything I’m craving brought to me in one sitting. At Williamston’s That New Place, they’ll do you one better and send you home with a treat to enjoy after your post-meal nap.

The restaurant is aesthetically adorable, with a cozy country kitchen vibe and the atmosphere of a beloved small-town diner where deals are done over hot black coffee and pie. Despite these vaguely Americana trappings, the menu boasts innovation and inflections of global cuisine. You can still get pie, though.

To start, I chose an iced Thai coffee from the eatery’s full coffee shop menu. The rich, sweet drink even came with ice cubes made from coffee, so it didn’t get diluted while I chatted and tore my hair out trying to pick what to order for my entrée. I finally settled on the root vegetable waffle because I can’t resist something usually sweet that’s been made savory.

The waffle was topped with bo ssam pork (Korean spiced pork shoulder), a poached egg and Hollandaise worthy of its own separate review. It was served alongside tasty house-made chicken sausages, as though they read my mind and knew I wouldn’t want to eat too much pork in one sitting.

The waffle was good, but it really shined in its role as the vessel for the light but creamy Hollandaise and savory, tender pork. Altogether, this was the best thing I’ve eaten in a long time. Bright and rich and earthy all in one bite, it combined everything I want in a flavor profile, especially with the addition of the house-made green hot sauce the chef (who co-owns the place with his baker wife) brought out for me after I eyed a bottle on another table. The chicken sausage was tasty, but I’d sub it for potatoes next time because I ended up stealing quite a few off of my companion’s plate.

As my meal was rung up, a layered chocolate cake with peach preserves caught my eye, and I asked to add a slice to my bill. I didn’t want the experience to be over! After my inevitable nap, I blearily devoured it and can confirm: Whether you prefer your breakfast sweet or savory, That New Place is a must-try.