An insider’s look at the flavors of New York’s Sullivan Catskills

Just about a two-hour drive from New York City, the enchanting landscapes of the Sullivan Catskills await. This hidden gem in the heart of New York offers travelers solace and an immersion in nature.

Settled in Roscoe, New York, you’ll find Northern Farmhouse Pasta and its owners, Bob and Jen Eckert.

“Sullivan County is a book, and each of its villages is a chapter — each unique and filled with their own stories,” Bob Eckert said.

Known as the birthplace of American fly fishing, the area is filled with unspoiled lakes, expansive forests and scenic mountains.

Bob Eckert, originally from Queens, New York, found his calling in the culinary world after a successful career in construction. With a passion for pasta-making, Bob and his wife established Northern Farmhouse in 2011, initially as a wholesale pasta business. In 2015, they expanded their venture to include a restaurant where  they serve Italian dishes using locally sourced ingredients.

Central to Northern Farmhouse’s philosophy is the use of 100% locally grown wheat in its pasta. Bucking the trend of conventional pasta, Bob Eckert recognized the potential of using wheat that thrives in the region. Partnering with farmers in the Finger Lakes area, the couple sources organic grains that are milled to order, ensuring freshness and quality.

One of the highlights of Eckert’s culinary journey is foraging for unique ingredients in the Sullivan Catskills. Each season brings a bounty of wild produce, such as ramps, watercress and mushrooms. From the pungent flavors of wild ramps to the earthy richness of porcini mushrooms, these hyperlocal ingredients find their way into Northern Farmhouse’s delectable dishes.

While incorporating locally sourced ingredients presents its challenges, Eckert is committed to educating diners about the value and flavor of these regional treasures. Engaging with the local farming community, he overcomes obstacles such as the limited amount of processing facilities and the need for close collaboration with farmers. Through its efforts, Northern Farmhouse brings the farm-to-table experience to the Sullivan Catskills.

During a visit to Northern Farmhouse, I was enamored with the hearty and savory pasta dishes made exclusively with New York wheat. I dined on the oxtail ragu, a dish that took me back to childhood memories of our father slow-cooking an oxtail stew for Sunday dinner.

When asked how he came upon using oxtails in his sauce, Eckert replied, “We had a lot of Spanish restaurants where I grew up in Queens, and you would go in and get an oxtail stew with some rice. I always loved it, so I started working with it.

“We were almost emulating the Spanish versions I had as a kid, but then I learned more about putting it into a ragu,” he continued. “The fattiness melts really quickly and coats everything. It adds this incredible flavor. And we get it from local farmers, which really makes us happy.”

He was gracious enough to share his delicious recipe.

Northern Farmhouse’s

oxtail ragu

• 4 pounds oxtail (osso buco
• meat cuts can work as well)
• Equal amounts celery, carrot
• and onion (approximately 12
• ounces)
• 48 ounces whole pear
• tomatoes, blended
• Four bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon chili flakes
• Salt and pepper to your liking

Put all the ingredients in a pot and cook on low heat for at least three hours, stirring occasionally. When the meat falls off the bone, it’s ready.

Plate with your favorite pasta. Add a little olive oil and fresh parsley and grate some pecorino Romano over the top.