Simple fish sauce transforms food into fine art

There are lots of restaurants that strive for beautiful, artistic plating using a kaleidoscope of surprising ingredients in creative, innovative combinations. And I love that for them. But what I love more are cuisines that are naturally beautiful in the same way their ingredients seem to be made for each other, generations upon generations of talented chefs keeping culinary traditions intact because there’s no need to improve upon perfection. I find this most often at Vietnamese restaurants, which the Lansing area is chock-full of.

Okemos’ King Pho is the most recent example I’ve discovered, and an impressive one at that. Tucked up against a small, dense lot of pine trees, it has the most charming and cozy little patio with string lights and colorful umbrellas. It would be perfect for a date night. Though my date was platonic, the food we enjoyed was completely swoon-worthy, and I’m certain we’ll be seeing each other again.

My dining companion eats at King Pho on a frequent basis, and she suggested the bun tofu. It’s probably the menu item with the least compelling description, but I trust her food opinions more than anyone’s, and this recommendation only bolstered her perfect record. A huge bowl arrived, containing a combination of colors and textures that promised only good things were to come.

Cool, silky rice vermicelli noodles served as the base, topped with warm, sauteed and ever-so-slightly charred tofu, redolent of lemongrass and garlic. For crunch, color and freshness, there was pickled carrot and daikon radish, as well as crushed peanuts. All this alone would have made an excellent, albeit simple meal. When doused with the side of fish sauce, though, it became an experience. Adding savoriness but also a caramel-esque, earthy sweetness, every element of the dish came alive, and thankfully, they gave me plenty of it.

We also enjoyed some fresh spring rolls: translucent, chewy rice paper wrapped around cold rice noodles, basil, mint, cucumber and shrimp, then dunked in a delectable hoisin and peanut butter sauce. It was the most refreshing and visually pleasing appetizer I’ve had in a while and, along with an iced lychee jelly tea, rounded out this perfect and picturesque late summer meal.