From burgers to breakfast burritos, Bobcat Bonnie’s New American fare is brilliant

From its opening in 1902 as a passenger railroad depot to its 38 years as beloved eatery Clara’s Lansing Station, the building at 637 E. Michigan Ave. has held a place in Lansing’s heart and history for more than a century. My family enjoyed an abundance of special occasions at Clara’s, and I have fond memories of its massive menu, the special dining in the railcar and the nostalgic scene from the second-floor balcony.  

Today, the space is occupied by a Starbucks on one side and the newest location of Michigan-based chain Bobcat Bonnie’s on the other. Founded in Detroit’s Corktown neighborhood, Bobcat Bonnie’s offers New American fare in comfy and fresh environments. The Lansing location honors the past but offers more than a fresh coat of paint. The renovations are aesthetically pleasing, and I could envision young professionals cozying up to the bar or families enjoying celebratory meals in the train car.  

I visited with a friend on a Friday afternoon, and though the restaurant was sparsely populated when we arrived, the main dining room was soon filled. Downtown Lansing needs more viable dining options, and I hope the inclusive spirit emanating from Bobcat Bonnie’s will lead to years of sustained success.   

Train wrecked 

Usually, a first bite of soup requires one to cautiously touch the spoon to their lips and take a soft sip before going all in so as not to scald their tongue or the roof of their mouth. This wasn’t the case with my dining companion’s fairly bland, barely room-temperature chicken tortilla soup ($7/bowl). Two or three turns of his spoon into the not-so-spicy Southwestern stew didn’t uncover any consolatory chicken shreds or chunks. Our table was also a little shaky, and whenever one of us bumped into it, I could see how watered down and thin the soup was.  

Service seemed slow. We were the only ones in the main dining room, but it took a while to place an order and then get our drinks. While the waitstaff was friendly, the food took longer than expected. A lot of attention seemed to be paid to the diners in the railcar and less to me and my friend. I will say, however, that once the staff realized the soup wasn’t being eaten, they offered to replace it, which we politely declined.  

Also on the lackluster side of the meal were the truffle tots ($11), a cup of typical tater tots seasoned with black truffle and parsley and topped with shredded Parmesan. They were okay, but the Parm kept falling off, and I found myself searching for some aioli to dunk the tots in.  

Back on the rails 

A far better bite was the 24K gold wings ($15). They weren’t quite as crispy as I would have preferred, but they were a nice size and came with an intriguing dusting of edible gold that shimmered in the light. The star of the show was the side of honey sriracha, which was tangy, sweet and offered just the right amount of kick.  

The fried Brussels sprouts ($10) had a lovely char, and the toasted almonds were an interesting accompaniment. I wish the sprouts would have been paired with some citrus or balsamic to cut the sweetness of the honey sriracha, but overall, they were a win and got my dining experience back on track. 

Best bite  

This month’s best bite goes to the Bobcat burger ($16). Two quarter-pound beef patties were smothered with cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce and topped with thick-cut bacon strips and a large, beer-battered onion ring. Although I wasn’t asked how I wanted the burger cooked, it was almost perfect, though perhaps a bit well-done for my liking. The brioche bun was buttery and toasty, and each bite was flavorful and juicy. My discerning palate could tell these were well-seasoned patties. The Bobcat definitely joined the ranks as one of my favorite burgers in town.