He ate, at Joe's on Jolly

Sometimes, you want to go where everybody knows your name. I’m sure you’re now singing the theme song of America’s favorite sitcom dive bar, with visions of regulars seated along the rail and friendly staff having as much fun as the clientele. What likely doesn’t come to mind when considering the bar scenes from “Cheers” is the food, which was rarely a focus outside of popcorn. Over time, dive bars have taken food far more seriously. Locally, burger baskets, cheese curds and fried pickles are popular items on bar menus, but recently, some dives have attempted to step up the quality of their gastronomic offerings. 

Such is the case with the newly opened Joe’s on Jolly in Okemos, a self-described “elevated” dive bar. Joe’s has a modern, open feel, with a sunken bar and plenty of outdoor seating that looks like an ideal summer watering hole. There’s also a private dining and reception space that was hosting an office party. Our server was pleasant, and service was expedient, but the star of the show was the house-made and locally sourced ingredients. 

What’s OK

As a true olive burger aficionado, the version at Joe’s ($18) just didn’t do it for me. Traditionalists typically prefer the olives and mayo to be mixed into a delectable sauce, but this mixed-olive tapenade sat atop the melted cheese, and the mayo and lettuce sat below the burger. The grilled brioche bun was a nice touch, and the burger was cooked to perfection, but overall, it was a tad too bougie for me. 

The smoked tomato-basil soup ($8) was highly acidic, peppery and a bit too chunky for my better half’s taste. She went searching for a smoky infusion of flavor or a sweet hint of basil but found neither in any spoonful she ate. She did enjoy dipping the Adult Grilled Cheese into the soup, but more so for the additional flavor it added to the sandwich — not so much on its own merits. 

What’s good

Joe’s has a solid happy hour with discounted appetizers and drinks. My dining companions enjoyed the crispy Brussels sprouts ($10), which had a nice char and a lovely presentation. The bright green orbs were topped with sliced red chiles, and the accompanying garlic aioli had a mild, vinegary tang. Joe Mama’s Bang-Bang Shrimp ($12) were smaller than I anticipated, more like rock shrimp, but were lightly battered and paired nicely with Sriracha mayo. The shrimp were firm but not overcooked and were served on a bed of Asian slaw drizzled with sesame oil, rice vinegar and a dash of heat. The kid’s pizza ($8) was a pleasant surprise. A slightly charcoaled bottom was evidence of house-made dough. The pie had a solid layer of cheese and sauce, and my littles were pleased.

What’s great

Joe’s has really good fries, and we tried three different varieties. Crispy and firm, the regular fries were lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. The Parmesan-truffle fries ($4 upgrade) were a big hit with the 2-year-old, who ate them all. Unfortunately, she’s also the only one who can’t speak in full sentences. But take it from the mouth (and stomach) of babes — she devoured those fries and didn’t save a speck for anyone else.

The Adult Grilled Cheese ($12) was amazing. The Texas toast was buttery goodness — crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. The handheld was packed with tomatoes, bacon and cheese. Speaking of bacon, it was thick, flavorful and just well-done enough to sit comfortably between chewy and crispy. This cheese sammy was served with sweet potato fries that were firm and sugary, with a pleasant sprinkle of large sea salt crystals.  

Best bite

I rarely order dessert with dinner, because I like to satiate my sweet tooth at bakeries where the sole focus is confections. However, that may change if I encounter more options like the sticky toffee bread pudding ($10) at Joe’s. The bread is clearly soaked in a bath of yumminess, with candied pecans and deep, rich dark chocolate folded in. It’s then covered with rum-caramel sauce and cozied up with a scoop of rich vanilla bean ice cream. Go get yourself some.