Lilia Peralta’s fiery red hair and pink lipstick hint at her lively and playful personality. She comes across as timid at first, but perhaps that’s simply a result of the language barrier. She only speaks Spanish, and I only speak English, save the few words I’ve learned through an app before the trip.
Still, her nervous structure falls away once the translator arrives. Her easy smile appears, and her hands gesture emphatically as she tells me about her family history; the acreage she and her husband, Alberto “Lalo” Higuera, own in a desert oasis she calls “paradise”; and especially the food she grows and creates using cherished recipes passed down for generations.
The couple lives in the small town of La Purísima, only 10 miles from the ocean in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, but one must travel many miles through the desert to get there.
There are two roads to take when driving to La Purísima from Loreto, on the eastern coast of Baja California Sur. What looks like — and technically is — the shorter route at 120 kilometers (about 75 miles), heading north along Federal Highway 1, is deceptive. This shortcut takes the driver across the Sierra de la Giganta, a mountain range that extends 930 miles along the southeastern Baja California peninsula, rising to its highest point at 3,858 feet near Loreto.
La Purísima is located in an oasis, a miracle of ecology that brings water, the source of life, to a desert. The lush greenery, wildlife and orchards delight the senses, especially in contrast to the dearth of the desert.
If you stop at an overlook during the long drive across the desert, you’ll see El Pilón in the distance. This non-active volcano and land marker stands tall as a guardian above the pool of water that looks so out of place in the arid environment.
The couple’s lush 50 acres include a ranch; gardens; waterbeds for kayaking; orchards filled with pomegranate, guava, mango, papaya, citrus and more; a winery; livestock; and cabanas they built themselves in order to share this piece of paradise with guests.
As if all this wasn’t enough for the active couple in their mid-70s, they also make wine and vinegar. Each December, the community gathers for a celebration to make and bottle sweet wine, similar to a port. The equipment they use is antique, and Higuera says this is the only wine still made with this ancient technique in the Americas.
Higuera is a handsome and rugged jokester. We bridge the language barrier with him teaching me sayings in Spanish, then slapping his hands on his legs and laughing uproariously when I repeat them.
For breakfast, Peralta is waiting for us after a morning kayak on the lagoon. A table under the canopy is lined with chilaquiles, refried beans, fresh corn and flour tortillas, goat cheese, scrambled eggs, chorizo with pineapple, pulled beef and a variety of sauces. There’s also freshly squeezed juice and a thick, syrupy coffee made in an iron pot using a canvas filter. It’s a feast, and after a morning spent kayaking on the water, we devour it with relish.
In La Purísima, we found a true desert escape, an off-the-beaten-path destination where a gregarious couple shares their culture and history with hand-built cabanas, authentic Mexican cooking and outdoor activities in a true paradise.
Fresh beans with peas
Broad beans, also known as fava beans, have been cultivated for thousands of years and are a staple food in many cultures around the world. In Mexico, they’re an important part of the diet, especially in rural areas, where they’re grown and consumed as a source of protein and nutrients. They’re commonly used in soups and stews and are often enjoyed as a snack.
The cultural significance of broad beans in Mexico extends beyond just food, as they have been used in traditional medicine for their many health benefits, such as aiding digestion and reducing inflammation.
Peralta’s family recipe for fresh beans with peas tastes similar to hummus or refried beans. It’s made with vegetables and aromatics from her garden while in season. It’s delicious spread on a warm tortilla and topped with Lilia’s homemade goat cheese.
Serves six
Ingredients:
Preparation:
Remove the beans and peas from the pods and wash them. Add to a pot with the water.
Cover the pot to prevent steam from escaping, then place it on the fire to simmer for approximately 10 minutes, or until the beans and peas are tender.
Melt the butter or lard in a large skillet and sauté the green chili, garlic and onion until softened. Toss together with the beans and peas, coriander and salt.
Once cooked, use a bean grinder or food processor to mash the mixture into a paste.
Serve with fresh goat cheese (or other soft cheese) and flour tortillas.
This story comes from Jill Dutton’s syndicated column, “Global Plates: The People We Meet, The Food They Eat.” It was originally published on the website Global Journeys with Jill Dutton.
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