Summerlands’ burgers are simply smashing

I spent last Saturday (Aug. 10) working up a hunger while walking the beautiful streets of Lansing and knocking on doors to canvass for the November election. After three hours of weird looks, uplifting conversations and greetings from friendly (but very large) dogs, I was more than ready to escape from reality for a few hours. So, I fled south to Holt, where Summerlands Brewing Co. recently opened, and treated myself to a burger and fries. As I took my first juicy bite in front of the big-screen TV inside the restaurant, an Olympic marathon runner was finishing a race in just over two hours. Pure, dissociative bliss was mine.

Summerlands is a tropical-themed brewery, but I wouldn’t go so far as to call it “tiki.” While a large, inflatable palm tree isn’t exactly a subtle decoration, the brewery is fun and understated, without all the sensory overload of a tiki bar. The outside patio is a great place to sit on a summer day, while the inside gives a sports bar vibe with a mix of high- and low-top tables.

I tried the Hawaiian smash burger, a juicy beef burger topped with the brewery’s signature Kahlua pork, which is rubbed with Hawaiian salt and aged soy before being wrapped in banana leaves and “slow-cooked for hours,” according to the menu. After the first bite, I could taste the care that had been taken with this pork. It was salty — I could taste both the rub and the soy — but overall, it was deeply flavorful and unique. I appreciated the sweet and salty combination of the pineapple ring and the beef, but the whole burger really came together for me because of the provolone cheese. It was earthy, a cheesier-tasting cheese than what I normally get on a burger (Swiss), and its edge balanced the strong flavor of the two different meats.

I’ll be real: The sides were a little so-so, especially compared to the burger. My waffle fries had been sitting for a bit, and the modest dill pickle wasn’t anything to write home about. While dining, I found myself craving a bit of coleslaw. While I’d never dream of telling a chef what to do, let’s just say that if it naturally came up in conversation, I would absolutely suggest a tropical coleslaw as a side for this burger.

The meat is the main event at Summerlands. It’s not only worth a try; it’s worth revisiting. The Kahlua pork is a great foundational dish for a new restaurant that has great service and provides a unique and light-hearted dining experience. I’ll certainly be returning to try the craft sodas, and maybe next time, I’ll try the pork nachos.